Garganega is the great white grape of Veneto and one of the oldest varieties in Italy. It is the grape of Soave, on the hills east of Verona, and of Gambellara, just across the border in the province of Vicenza. It gives savoury, long-lived whites scented with white flowers and almond, and from dried grapes a sweet wine of long tradition, Recioto.
An old and prolific grape
Garganega was already mentioned in the early fourteenth century by the Bolognese agronomist Pier de' Crescenzi. DNA analysis has shown that it is the same grape called Grecanico in Sicily, and that it has direct parent-offspring links with many varieties of central and southern Italy, including Trebbiano Toscano, Albana, Catarratto and Malvasia Bianca di Candia. It is, in short, one of the great founding varieties of Italian viticulture.
Soils and vineyards
Garganega is vigorous and ripens late, between the end of September and October; if yields are not kept in check it gives neutral wines. Its character changes a lot with the soil. Around Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone, at the heart of the Classico zone, it grows on volcanic soils of dark basalt; further west limestone prevails. Volcanic ground gives savoury, mineral wines, limestone more floral and delicate ones. The hills of Gambellara are volcanic too. It is traditionally trained on the Veronese pergola, which shades the bunches and keeps them fresh.
In the glass
Young Soave is straw yellow, with aromas of white flowers, apple, peach and citrus and a characteristic almond finish. With age come notes of honey, chamomile and flint: Garganega is one of the Italian whites that age best, and a good Soave Superiore lasts ten years. Recioto di Soave is made from grapes dried for months in lofts: it is sweet and golden, smells of dried apricot, honey and yellow flowers, and has an acidity that keeps it balanced.
The appellations
Soave requires at least 70% Garganega, with Trebbiano di Soave or Chardonnay for the rest; Soave Superiore DOCG has stricter rules and a minimum alcohol of 12%. Gambellara requires at least 80%. Garganega also goes into the whites of other Veneto appellations: Colli Berici, Colli Euganei and Custoza, where it is blended with Trebbiano, Cortese and Friulano. Under the name Grecanico it is also found in Sicily, mainly in the west of the island.
Wineries
Among the wineries in our directory is Cantina di Soave, the oldest cooperative in Veneto, founded in 1898 and today with more than two thousand members. Azienda Agricola Vicentini Agostino works at Colognola ai Colli, and Menti Giovanni at Gambellara.
At the table
Soave goes with vegetable starters, asparagus risotto, lake fish, baccalà alla vicentina and fresh cheeses; more mature versions stand up to white meat and medium-aged Monte Veronese cheese. Recioto is a wine for dry cakes and blue cheeses.
