Gallura is the north-eastern corner of Sardinia: a plateau of wind-carved granite, Mediterranean scrub, cork-oak woods and jagged coastline, from the Costa Smeralda to Santa Teresa. Here Vermentino finds poor, sandy soils, constant winds and strong temperature swings, and gives a white of strong character. It has been a DOC since 1975 and a DOCG since 1996. Vineyards cover about 1,416 hectares, with an output of 40,900 hectolitres.
The area
The appellation includes the whole of twenty-three municipalities, among them Arzachena, Olbia, Tempio Pausania, Calangianus, Luras, Berchidda, Monti, Palau, Santa Teresa di Gallura, San Teodoro, Budoni and Golfo Aranci. From the hilly interior of Tempio and Monti to the areas near the sea, Vermentino changes character: tauter and more mineral at altitude, softer and more savoury on the coast.
The rules
All styles require at least 95% Vermentino. Besides the Bianco, which may also be frizzante or medium-sweet, there are the Superiore, Spumante, Vendemmia Tardiva and Passito. Minimum alcohol is 10.5%. The still Bianco and the Superiore are released from 15 January after the harvest; the traditional-method Spumante spends at least 9 months on the lees; the Passito is not released before the following 1 May.
In the glass Vermentino di Gallura is straw yellow with greenish glints, with aromas of white flowers, Mediterranean scrub, citrus, almond and a saline note; on the palate it is full and savoury, with a slightly bitter finish.
History and the table
Viticulture in the area dates back to the Nuragic age: vessels with traces of wine from 1400-1200 BC have been found. Vermentino may have been brought to Gallura by the Spanish between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries, and in 1877 Count Rovasenda mentioned it as a table grape; its true origin remains unknown. Served cool it makes an excellent aperitif; it goes with flavourful Sardinian first courses, roast fish, molluscs, shellfish and mild pecorino. For Vermentino from the rest of the island there is the Vermentino di Sardegna DOC.
