Vermentino, Old Sea Wolf

There is no doubt that Vermentino loves the sea. Its past is unclear: some say it comes from the Orient, others from Anatolia, others from the Iberian Peninsula. What we know for certain is that, after a brief stop in France, it settled in Italy, choosing as its home the most beautiful areas of our peninsula. Vermentino hovers around the sea, on the hills and countryside caressed by salty winds blown in from the water. The finest Italian coastlines are those that host the rows of this semi-aromatic grape variety. Sardinia, Liguria, Tuscany – Mediterranean regions that have proven to be the natural homeland of Vermentino, giving it the opportunity to express itself at its best and to gift us with excellent wines.

In total, there are 4,000 hectares of land cultivated in Italy. Some 65% are found in Sardinia, where it is grown practically throughout the entire region, which in its entirety falls within the DOC Vermentino di Sardegna. Then there is the DOCG della Gallura, where the vines grow on granite stones smoothed by wind and water, producing a straw-yellow wine with greenish reflections, an aromatic fragrance with balsamic notes of sage and fruity hints of apple and citron, excellent alcohol content and good natural acidity.

In Liguria it can be found both on the western and eastern Rivieras, from France all the way to Tuscany, on terraces overlooking the sea. The wines produced here are less structured than those from Gallura but more elegant, very similar in colour and aromatic intensity with pleasant citrus notes; well-balanced wines with a fresh flavour and restrained acidity.

In Tuscany, Vermentino has managed to conquer territory in areas that have always been the cradle of great red wines. We find it in the province of Massa Carrara, in what is the natural continuation of the DOC Colli di Luni ligure, and above all in the Maremma. Here the wines have a more golden straw-yellow colour, with a lively fragrance carrying fruity notes of peach, apricot and honey. Full-bodied and soft wines in which one can find the freshness of the Mediterranean scrubland and the saltiness of the sea breezes. This grape variety can yield very different products depending on the soil, position, climate and farming practices, while always retaining the sun and the sea as its common denominators.

Finally, allow me to suggest some pairings with regional dishes: a fish-based dish is ideal for Vermentino di Gallura, a plate of strigoli al pesto (strictly made with basilico di Prà) for Vermentino Ligure, and lastly, for the Tuscan Vermentino, a small octopus salad caught in the golfo di Baratti – and since that is my neck of the woods, if you like, I'll bring the octopus myself!