Oltrepò Pavese is the triangle of hills that rises from the right bank of the Po towards the Apennines, between Piedmont and Emilia, in the province of Pavia. With more than ten thousand hectares of vineyard it is the largest wine-growing territory in Lombardy and one of the largest in Italy. The appellation, recognised in 1970, covers some forty hill municipalities from Casteggio to Stradella, from Santa Maria della Versa to Rovescala.
The range is broad: reds from Barbera, Croatina and Uva Rara, often frizzante; whites from Riesling, Pinot Grigio and Cortese; sweet Moscato; and reds from Pinot Noir, a grape that also has a long history here as a sparkling base. Over the years some styles have become appellations in their own right: Bonarda, Buttafuoco, Sangue di Giuda and the traditional-method sparkling wine from Pinot Noir, now Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG.
The common thread is drinkability: straightforward wines with lively acidity and fruit to the fore, made for the Po Valley table of cured meats, risottos, boiled meats and cheeses. Still Pinot Noir, in the best versions, leaves this register and aims for finesse.
