Lugana comes from the southern shore of Lake Garda, straddling two regions: the province of Brescia in Lombardy, with Sirmione, Desenzano and Pozzolengo, and the province of Verona in Veneto, around Peschiera del Garda. It is among Italy's first DOCs, recognised in 1967. Vineyards cover about 2,560 hectares, with an output of 211,650 hectolitres.
Glacial clay
The soil is Lugana's true signature: a very clayey, compact soil, left by the last ice ages, namely the base of the glacier whose retreat formed the lake. The clay holds water and gives wines with body and good staying power, while the lake moderates the climate and lengthens ripening.
Turbiana
The regulations require at least 90% Trebbiano di Soave, called Turbiana or Trebbiano di Lugana here. Genetic studies have linked it to Verdicchio from the Marche, and indeed the two wines share freshness, almond notes and ageing potential. Minimum alcohol is 11%.
Basic Lugana may be released from 15 January after the harvest. The Superiore and the Vendemmia Tardiva age for at least 12 months; the Riserva for at least 24 months, 6 of them in bottle. There is also a Spumante. In the glass Lugana is straw yellow with green glints, with aromas of white flowers, citrus, peach and almond, and a mineral savouriness.
A land of passage
The area is rich in Bronze Age settlements and Roman remains: it was the natural passage between east and west. Then came the Scaligeri, who left the castle of Sirmione and the fortress of Peschiera, and the centuries of the Republic of Venice, from 1440 to 1797. At the table Lugana goes with lake fish, from whitefish to pike, risottos, baked tench and fresh cheeses; on the other side of the Verona area, Soave is its closest relative.
