The Campi Flegrei, the "burning fields", are the great volcanic area west of Naples: craters, lakes, fumaroles and hills overlooking the Gulf of Pozzuoli. The appellation covers the whole territory of Procida, Pozzuoli, Bacoli, Monte di Procida and Quarto, and part of Marano di Napoli, in the metropolitan city of Naples. It is a small DOC, recognised in 1994: about 101 hectares and 4,520 hectolitres.
Vines on volcanic sand
The soils are made of ash, lapilli and volcanic sand, loose and poor. Phylloxera never took hold here, and many vines are still ungrafted. Old long-layering training systems, the so-called Puteolan method, are common, with centuries-old plants. A well-founded hypothesis links the name of Falanghina to the "falanga", the wooden stake that supported the vine.
Whites and reds
Campi Flegrei Falanghina requires at least 90% of the grape; the Bianco uses 50 to 70%, with other white grapes. The typical red is Piedirosso, known locally as Pèr e Palummo, "pigeon's foot", for the red colour of its stalks: at least 90% of the grape, also as a rosé and a Riserva, aged for at least two years. The Rosso is a blend with at least 50% Piedirosso and 30% Aglianico. The range is completed by the Novello, a Spumante from Falanghina and white and red Passito. Minimum alcohol is 10.5%.
Phlegraean Falanghina has aromas of white flowers, citrus and Mediterranean herbs, with an almost marine savouriness. Piedirosso is a light, fragrant red, of cherry and geranium, with delicate tannins: it can be served cool.
At the table, on the gulf
Falanghina goes with fried small fish, anchovies, spaghetti with clams and buffalo mozzarella. Piedirosso suits Neapolitan pizza, oily fish in tomato and cured meats. In the same province, on the other side of the gulf, Vesuvio is the other great volcanic wine of Campania.
