Amarone Corte Giara, another gem from Allegrini

We have already met Allegrini, a winery in Valpolicella with a century-old history in wine production, which in more recent times has extended its wine offering to products from two estates in Tuscany. On that occasion we spoke about an extraordinary single-varietal Corvina, La Poja, made from grapes that undergo no drying. Now I want to share the tasting notes for the Amarone Corte Giara, a wine of the most classic tradition of Valpolicella, where the estate's vineyard extends for approximately 100 hectares. This is where the journey of Amarone begins, one of the great ambassadors of Italian wine in the world.

Valpolicella, one of the most prestigious areas in the Italian wine landscape, has been devoted to viticulture since ancient times. The very etymology of its name – "val polis cellae" – means "the valley of many cellars." A region highly suited to the production of quality wines, thanks in part to its prominent hillside position, the territory is predominantly calcareous and, from a geological standpoint, dates back to the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods. The climate is generally mild and temperate.

Allegrini is one of the leading interpreters of Amarone, today a prestigious symbol of the entire territory. Its ancestor, Recioto, known since Roman times as Retico, long represented the pride of the area's winemakers. In the past it was the only wine in Valpolicella made from dried grapes and it remains to this day one of the very few sweet red wines in the enological landscape. In the middle of the last century, through experimentation and with a helping hand from chance, Amarone was born – which, unlike Recioto, completes the alcoholic fermentation of the dried grapes through the near-total conversion of sugars into alcohol.

Let us now turn to our Amarone. The vineyard is located in a hilly area at an altitude of between 180 and 250 metres above sea level, with a favourable south-east exposure. The soil is highly varied, mostly clay-limestone and rich in skeleton. The vineyard is trained on a pergola system, with an average vine age of around 30–35 years and a planting density of 3,000 vines per hectare.

Harvest is carried out by hand and begins in the second half of September, with the harvested bunches placed in crates. The drying of Corvina Veronese grapes (70%), the noblest variety of the territory, and Rondinella, a distinctly more rustic grape, takes place in well-ventilated drying lofts. The drying period lasts between 100 and 120 days, during which the grapes lose 40 to 50% of their original weight and undergo complex chemical transformations.

Vinification takes place in the first half of January, with a gentle pressing of destemmed grapes, a fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature of 8–22°C lasting 22–24 days, and periodic daily pump-overs. After racking, the wine rests for 5 months in stainless steel before maturing in wood for 14 months, half in Slavonian oak casks and half in second-passage barriques. The wine then refines for a further 6 months in bottle before being released to market.

Let us now move on to the tasting.

Amarone della Valpolicella Corte Giara 2010

Of a bright ruby red tending towards garnet of excellent intensity, it shows thick legs on the glass that underscore its great structure. The nose is majestic, with overripe yet still vibrant red fruit – above all plum and blueberries – followed immediately by clear notes of sweet spices, as well as pepper and cloves, deep hints of tobacco and liquorice – all tertiary notes owing in part to the long time in bottle. The finish is full, enveloping and velvety over a long mineral trail. Imposing on the palate, it maintains an elegant and silky profile, with over 15 degrees of alcohol well balanced by a vibrant acidity. Tannins are sweet and perfectly integrated into the whole.

This is a wine for great occasions, to be paired with rich braised meats, game such as hare, and long-aged cheeses. Truly moving.