Valle delle Ferle: how good is the Frappato!

The Valle delle Ferle winery is located a few kilometres from Caltagirone, a city in the province of Catania known above all for its Carnival and for the beautiful ceramics produced there. The winery is situated within the zone of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the only Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita in Sicily. We are at the heart of the oldest wine route which, according to historical and archaeological studies, would have extended from Gela-Kamarina, through the hills of Niscemi and Vittoria, passing through Caltagirone and then continuing towards Lentini and reaching as far as Catania.

Valle delle Ferle is the conclusion of a project, the result of a life choice made by two young engineers – Claudia and Andrea – driven by passion, dedication, and respect for the land, the vine, and its natural cycle. With an attention to quality that has enabled the winery to begin the process of conversion to organic farming in the vineyard, a process that will be completed this year. It rises in a place where it is possible to encounter the truest Sicily, sincere and authentic, with its land, its warmth, and its colours and aromas. Planted in 1974, the vineyard extends over 10 hectares and consists entirely of Nero d'Avola and Frappato, the grapes that also contribute to the blend of the DOCG. Today we will talk about the Frappato vinified as a single variety belonging to the Vittoria denomination, one of the three wines produced at the winery.

Positioned at 400 m above sea level, the soil where the vineyard is planted is of alluvial origin, composed predominantly of sands and medium-textured clays, rich in skeleton and essentially arid. The vines, which are not irrigated, are trained using the spur-trained cordon system, albeit in a "somewhat unorthodox" manner with different methods of attaching the vines to the trellis. The planting density is 4,000 vines per hectare and yields are very low, not exceeding 20 quintals. The vineyard experiences significant temperature fluctuations between seasons and between night and day – a condition that will lend the wine greater complexity and a rich and elegant aromatic profile. The strong winds, typical of the area, reduce the risk of fungal diseases developing, while the south-facing exposure of the vines, constantly bathed in sunlight during daylight hours, and the climate, usually dry during the ripening period, enrich the wines in body and structure. All ideal pedoclimatic characteristics for managing the vineyard, as is the age of the vines, which guarantees greater quality in the wine, thanks to the plant's greater capacity to express the terroir in terms of structure, balance, and aromatics.

The recently renovated cellar stands within an ancient palm grove and is equipped with all the most modern equipment and technologies for winemaking, conducted exclusively using organic practices and with the utmost care. Here the ripe grape clusters, exclusively produced in the estate vineyard and harvested by hand in the second half of September, arrive in small crates to preserve their integrity. After a very gentle pressing that safeguards the integrity of the skins, the must is transferred to temperature-controlled fermentation tanks where alcoholic fermentation begins. Vinification does not exceed 10 days and is monitored without interruption to ensure the wine has structure, colour, aromas, and elegance. The wine is then drawn off using a modern horizontal membrane pneumatic press, a machine that allows for a gentle and fractional extraction at a pressure of just 0.4 atmospheres. Once this phase is complete, the wine is left to age in stainless steel tanks in contact with the fine lees for one year until final bottling. The wine thus obtained will then rest for a further three months in bottle before being released for sale.

Let us now move on to the tasting.

Vittoria Frappato 2016

Of a bright ruby red colour, when swirling the glass the wine forms thick tears that descend slowly, a sign of considerable structure. The olfactory profile is marked by a very intense nose, with the wine initially expressing a bouquet of flowers – geranium, rose – followed by notes of red fruits such as cherry, raspberry, and blackberry. Spiced hints of pepper, liquorice, and aromatic Mediterranean herbs such as sage and lavender then emerge. The olfactory complexity is thus very pleasing. On the palate it presents with a lively freshness but also with a silky tannin, overall velvety and round – characteristics that render the wine in substantial balance. It finishes long with a mineral and thyme aftertaste.

The pleasant drinkability increases when enjoyed paired with dishes such as meat-based first courses with tomato, or vegetable-based preparations. But I have also drunk long sips of it on its own – this Frappato is truly delicious.