Vitella arrosto in crosta di sapori with Corvina Quadrivium 2014

Sydeways Vineria Bistrot has recently opened in Rome, a top-tier wine bar where engaging food and wine events take place with a focus on wine territories. During an event on Valpolicella, I had the opportunity to try the pairing between the arrosto di vitella in crosta di sapori – prepared by chef Maicol – and the Corvina Quadrivium 2014 from the emerging winery Poggio delle Grazie. The wine was bottled especially for the occasion, as it will be officially presented at the upcoming Vinitaly.

INGREDIENTS for 20 people

• 2 kg of veal;
• carrots;
• celery;
• oil, butter and spices to taste.

PREPARATION

The meat was massaged with butter for approximately 3–4 minutes to make it more tender. It was then coated with aromatics including: rosemary, sage, thyme, oregano, pepper and salt. The veal was then placed in a casserole dish roughly the same size as the cut of meat, into which celery and carrots had previously been chopped into large pieces. It was drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil, deglazed with red wine, a little water was added, and it was placed in the oven for approximately 40 minutes at 180° C.

The roast was turned and basted with the cooking juices that had formed in the casserole. Checking the doneness by piercing it with a toothpick, the meat was removed from the oven as soon as a clear liquid ran out. Once cooked, the roast was left to rest for approximately 15 minutes to allow the flavours to penetrate the meat. The "broth" that had formed from the celery, carrots, wine and aromatics was blended, and the resulting vellutata was spread over the meat before serving.

The main gustatory and olfactory characteristics of the dish are as follows:

> veal: noticeable intrinsic and induced succulence, fairly noticeable savouriness;
> vellutata di carote e sedano: noticeable succulence and aromaticity, fairly noticeable savouriness and unctuousness.

The dish is characterised by succulence, aromaticity and savouriness. The importance of the aromatics used also gave the veal a long gustatory and olfactory persistence.

The Corvina Quadrivium 2014

The Corvina Quadrivium from Poggio delle Grazie is the second single-varietal Corvina I have had the chance to review, after La Poja by Allegrini. In the Valpolicella tradition, Corvina is usually blended with other grapes, giving rise to, among others, the extraordinary Amarone and Recioto. Yet it apparently also produces great wines when vinified entirely on its own. In the case of the Quadrivium, 50% of the harvested grapes are placed in 6 kg crates and left to dry for one month, following local custom. Fermentation is spontaneous, entirely without selected yeasts, at a controlled temperature never exceeding 20 °C, with daily pump-overs open to the air. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally at the end of the alcoholic fermentation. Ageing lasts approximately 14 months, half in stainless steel and half in new 500 hl tonneau. The blend was completed just a few weeks ago with no filtration or treatments.

Deep ruby red in colour, impenetrable, the wine forms thick arches on the glass wall with tears that slide slowly down, a sign of significant structure. The nose is fruity, with hints of plum and dark fruits such as blackberries and blueberries. Left in the glass for a few minutes, the olfactory spectrum opens up to reveal spiced notes, nutmeg and liquorice wood, and toasty, chocolatey hints. On the palate the wine impresses with its remarkable balance, despite being very young, with a beautiful tannic structure and acidity well balanced by the softness imparted by the drying process as well as an alcohol content of nearly 14 degrees. The finish is very long with menthol retro-olfactory returns. A wine of great class that also promises good longevity. To be retasted in no less than 5–7 years, curious to discover what effect time will have on the wine.

But how did the pairing go? The succulence of the meat was dried out by the tannin of the Corvina, a very well-present tannin. The aromaticity of the vellutata blended perfectly with the softness of the wine which, being very long, adequately accompanied the gustatory and olfactory persistence of the dish.

The pairing was a success. The pleasantness of the food-and-wine pairing is evidenced by the harmony that these two great protagonists were able to create. The vitella arrosto in crosta di sapori and the Corvina Quadrivium by Poggio delle Grazie.