Calosso is a village in the Asti hills bordering the Langhe, where vineyards cover more than 80% of the farmland. Here, and in the nearby municipalities of Castagnole delle Lanze and Costigliole d'Asti, a red grape almost vanished elsewhere survives: Gamba Rossa, also called Gamba di Pernice, "partridge leg", for the red colour of its stalks, which recall the bird's legs. To protect it, the Calosso DOC was created in 2011, a tiny DOC in Piedmont: about 9 hectares and 220 hectolitres.
The rules
The regulations require at least 90% Gamba Rossa, with other red grapes to complete. The vineyards lie between 150 and 450 metres above sea level. Minimum alcohol is 11.5%. There are three styles: Rosso, Passarà and Riserva. The Rosso ages for at least 20 months and cannot be released before 1 July of the second year after the harvest; the Riserva and the Rosso with a vineyard designation age for at least 30 months.
A red with character
Gamba Rossa gives ruby wines with aromas of red fruit, violet, spice and a characteristic peppery note; the tannins are soft and the freshness good. The long ageing required by the regulations rounds out its structure and adds complexity.
It is a wine to discover in the area's cellars rather than on shop shelves: bottles are few, and the appellation is the result of the work of a group of producers who chose to save a historic grape instead of replacing it.
Between Barbera and Moscato
The Calosso hills are also home to Barbera d'Asti and Moscato, and border the vineyards of Freisa d'Asti and Monferrato. At the table Calosso goes with agnolotti in roast gravy, tajarin, bollito misto, finanziera and medium-aged Piedmontese cheeses.
