Valter Bosticardo: the Savior of Gamba di Pernice

We have already talked about that red-berried gem that has now become a rarity: the Gamba di Pernice.

The vine that survived phylloxera and other hardships has arrived exhausted and worn out in our times, and efforts are being made to save it, though a greater push would be needed to enhance its nectar.

Of a ruby red color, not very intense, with a characteristic spicy aroma, soft on the palate, medium-bodied, and with a tendency toward a slightly bitter finish; it is sold as a varietal Vino da Tavola and sometimes bottled in versions not well suited to aging.

Of a different tendency is the Gamba vinified by Valter Bosticardo, an eccentric (described by some as mad!) owner of Tenuta dei Fiori, who understood that Gamba can express a great deal if properly set up to mature and age!

Tenuta dei Fiori is located in Calosso in the historic Rodotiglia region, in a gentle and rather isolated valley, where Gambarossa, Barbera, moscato, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon are cultivated on white soils of a predominantly tuffaceous-calcareous nature.

Indeed, if today we can taste Gamba, it is thanks to this gentleman who in the early nineteen-eighties recovered vines of Gamba di Pernice from various areas of Calosso, then replanted them and vinified the grapes to see if it was possible to obtain at least a drinkable wine.

Well, thirty years on... I would say the experiment succeeded!

Valter assures me that in the vineyard, treatments are kept to a minimum as much as possible, and regarding maceration: he leaves the must in contact with the skins for about ten days in stainless steel tanks, where it undergoes several daily pump-overs at a temperature of 28-30 degrees.

Aging takes place only in stainless steel tanks for two years, followed by at least a year and a half in bottle.

Choices worth respecting that, in his words, give the wine the right character.

Speaking of character, now all that remains is to taste the wines Valter has prepared for me – a face-off between past and present.

Gambarossa Vino da Tavola rosso 2007

This is the current vintage on the market, a lovely ruby red with light intensity and garnet reflections.
A wine with pronounced aromas that I would not hesitate to describe as very frank, as it is a very clean wine – a mark of honesty – rich in aromatic components where sweet spices stand out most prominently, but ripe red fruits, violet, and pepper are also very evident.
A wine with good overall structure, good alcohol, a pleasant roundness, and well-balanced acidity. Not a very tannic wine but balanced on the whole.
Among the retro-olfactory sensations, intensity stands out along with a sufficiently persistent PAI.
A wine to drink now but that can be left to refine for another couple of years.
As a pairing I recommend fresh and medium-aged robiole di Roccaverano, cured meats, and in general excellent with regional appetizers.
A personal note: I quite enjoy – having tried it – the pairing with a good risotto al tartufo (and with truffle dishes in general). I would also venture it alongside Finanziera.

Gambarossa Vino da Tavola 1990

A real gem! A ruby red color more intense than the previous one, with orange reflections.
On the nose it is not free of olfactory anomalies, as volatile acidity is quite high with hints of acetone, yet immediately leather, red fruit jam, and earthy undergrowth notes come through.
On the palate the acidity is incredibly well balanced and the wine comes across as harmonious.
A wine that has passed its peak but of great interest, even from a didactic perspective.
Pairing with cheeses.
Ideal as a vino da meditazione.

Until next time.