Gamba di Pernice, an Endangered Grape Variety

In the province of Asti, between the Monferrato and the Langhe, nestled among hills covered with vineyards, lies the municipality of Calosso. It is in this area of lower Piedmont, where barbera and moscato reign supreme, that an indigenous grape called Gamba di Pernice is cultivated.

Rare and little known, having survived phylloxera and for many years at risk of extinction, Gamba di Pernice is a red-berried grape variety grown on ungrafted rootstock. It takes its name from a peculiarity of this variety: the reddening of the rachis before véraison, which takes on a color similar to the legs of partridges.

Currently, the hectares planted with Gamba di Pernice number around ten, and the grape is vinified in purity by very few producers, all located in the municipality of Calosso, who have requested registration in the National Catalogue of Varieties under the name Gamba rossa.

Characteristics of these grapes result in a wine with a not particularly intense ruby red color, a distinctive spicy aroma, a soft palate, medium body, and a finish that tends toward bitterness.

Currently, while awaiting the upcoming first release of the Calosso Doc, it is sold in purity as a Vino da Tavola. Some producers release a version not well suited to aging, while others produce it with exactly the opposite intention!

Given its rarity, it is a grape variety that must be protected and preserved – at least at a legal level, an attempt has been made with a production specification, an excerpt of which is provided below:

PRODUCTION SPECIFICATION FOR WINES WITH CONTROLLED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN
"CALOSSO"

Article 1
Designation and wines
1. The controlled designation of origin "Calosso" is reserved for wines that meet the conditions and requirements set forth in this production specification, for the following types:
-"Calosso" (also riserva)
-"Calosso" Passarà.

Article 2
Ampelographic basis
Wines with the controlled designation of origin "Calosso" must be produced from grapes of the variety Gamba Rossa N. (synonym Imperatrice dalla gamba rossa) at 90% to 100%;
grapes of other non-aromatic black-berried varieties suitable for cultivation in the Piemonte region may contribute, jointly or separately, up to a maximum of 10%.

Article 3
Grape production area
1. The production area for grapes suitable for producing wines with the controlled designation of origin "Calosso" comprises the entire territory of the municipalities of: Calosso, Castagnole delle Lanze and Costigliole D'Asti.

Strict limits for a truly little-known wine – let's hope to see it in the spotlight soon!