Gewurztraminer Kastelaz 2014 by Elena Walch, elegance and complexity

Alto Adige, a land of borders and vineyards. A land that has long distinguished itself for a wine sector characterised by a highly evolved cooperative system. Here the social wineries manage to combine the often opposing demands of the highest quality wines produced and the income guaranteed to member growers.

Within this context, some private wineries stand out, many of them family-run. One of these is Elena Walch, the name of the owner of the eponymous estate, now well known in Italy and abroad. With 55 hectares of vineyard cultivated under a high-sustainability regime, as well as a technologically advanced and eco-compatible cellar, the estate has certainly contributed to the qualitative revolution of Alto Adige.

The wines of Elena Walch must respect one fundamental principle: they must be the expression of their terroir – that is, of the territory in which they are produced – as well as of the climate characterised by its great thermal variations and of the activities necessary for their production. Each vineyard must be managed respecting its own peculiarities so that it may be passed on as a legacy to future generations. Enrichment of the soil with organic matter and pruning wood residues, the renunciation of herbicides, the extension of organic farming practices, leaf removal and biological antagonism for pest control: these are just some of the principles adopted by the estate in vineyard management, with a view to respecting and protecting the environment.

And from one of the most celebrated of these vineyards comes the Gewurztraminer we tasted today – from the steep hill of Kastelaz, located in the municipality of Tramin (Termeno).

Kastelaz is an extraordinary vineyard, situated on a hill above Tramin. The vineyard benefits from full south-facing exposure, an absolutely fortunate orientation. The vines are terraced and positioned between 340 and 380 metres above sea level, and given the significant gradients we can speak of "heroic viticulture". The soil composition is characterised primarily by the presence of calcareous pebbles, sedimented over the centuries and covered over time by layers of rock such as granite and porphyry. In addition to Gewürztraminer, Merlot and Pinot Bianco are also produced on the Kastelaz hill.

The Kastelaz Gewurztraminer is cultivated in very tight rows trained to Guyot, with as many as 7,500 vines per hectare. The very low yields per hectare, combined with the calcareous-clay soil, the climatic conditions characterised by extreme thermal variations, and the microclimate unique to this terroir, are all necessary prerequisites that give rise to a refined wine distinguished by the elegance and marked complexity of its aromas.

The grapes are rigorously selected directly in the vineyard. The grapes macerate on their skins for approximately six hours, after which soft pressing takes place. The decantation is static and occurs at a controlled temperature. Equally controlled is the temperature of alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel (below 20°C) with selected yeasts. Ageing takes place on the wine's own lees (sur lie) until the following spring.

Let us turn to the wine.

The Gewürztraminer Kastelaz presents itself as crystal clear with an intense golden yellow colour of beautiful tonality. Wonderful is the olfactory spectrum, which is rich and full of nuances: immediately floral aromas of rose and geranium, also orange blossom, primary and predominantly aromatic notes. These give way to fruity notes of peach and pink grapefruit, dried fruit and finely spiced hints of cinnamon. The complex olfactory picture is closed by a precise hint of sage.

On the palate the wine is warm, where the 14 degrees of alcohol and its softness seem well balanced by a beautiful freshness and an important structure, while a remarkable aromatic complexity accompanies us through the long and persistent finish. A truly excellent and particularly elegant wine that at times leaves us speechless.

We tasted it at dinner, pairing it to our satisfaction with several preparations from Mediterranean cuisine. The Gewurztraminer Kastelaz thus smoothed the rough edges of aubergines with cherry tomatoes and capers, and of trofie al pesto pantesco.