Gewurztraminer: does price make the difference?

A head-to-head between Elena Walch and Cantine del Coppiere PrefaceBefore diving into the article, a preface: I believe that price does not always make the difference and that often lesser-known wineries (perhaps with lower prices) can pleasantly surprise us – will this be a similar situation?

by WineAtWine
Wine at Wine Editorial Team

Gewurztraminer: does price make the difference?

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A head-to-head between Elena Walch and Cantine del Coppiere

Preface
Before diving into the article, a preface: I believe that price does not always make the difference and that often lesser-known wineries (perhaps with lower prices) can pleasantly surprise us – will this be a similar situation?

Elena Walch: a pleasant and accidental discovery
I was used to buying Gewurztraminer from the Cavit winery (cost per bottle 8–13 euros), an excellent product that is certainly worth trying.
By pure chance (lack of product) I found myself buying the same type of wine from the Elena Walch winery, a winery originally from the Tramin area, price per bottle 12–16 euros.
The estate has a long (founded in 1869) and prestigious history, enhanced by the stunning area where its vineyards are located.

The right label
The label of our bottle is elegant and refined, with soft colors and a very distinctive cut; in a certain way, what is perceived by sight fully reflects the flavor of the wine that we will discover first through the nose and then on the palate.
We are about to drink a 2010 vintage wine that is far from unknown, having already received awards from Gambero Rosso (Tre bicchieri) and the Associazione Italiana Sommelier (5 grappoli).

Elena Walch: a unique fragrance
The color is an intense straw yellow, composed and brilliant, vaguely cerulean – I would dare say golden.
This very aromatic, spiced, and delicate wine gives it a unique and refined fragrance.
The complex, structured, and powerful nose manages to be gentle nonetheless, encapsulating the essence of the finest grapes and releasing everything you expect from the finest Gewurztraminer.

A taste that meets expectations
On the palate it initially appears restrained and dry, only to then surprise with the delicate aroma of flowers and apricots; even though it does not come from a typically warm region, inside it seems to contain an extract of sunshine.
To me it felt like drinking an essence of flowers and fruit!
Its fine and light flavor is almost always appreciated by the fairer sex as well, and it is pleasantly enjoyed as an aperitif wine.
I was left in awe!

With food
The flavor of this wine pairs well with fish-based dishes, especially spigola al forno and shellfish (particularly with astice), and with risotti.
With the globalization of cultures and new experimentation, a truly successful pairing has been discovered – with Asian cuisine, sushi above all.
It should always be served chilled at a temperature of around 11 to 13 degrees.

The flaw
One flaw is acknowledged – or rather, generally attributed to this type of wine: it overly covers flavors, leaving on the palate only its powerful, but wonderful aroma.
This is one of the reasons I find it excellent as an aperitif.

The challenger
While out grocery shopping, my choice falls by pure chance on a very affordable Gewurztraminer (3–6 euros) and my mission in this case will be to try to debunk the sometimes overused myth that the best wines are the most expensive ones (and not only when it comes to wines) and that the desire to show off by buying a prestigious bottle is often greater than actual competence and a genuine quest for quality.
I feel in the mood to debunk myths and so I choose, in my opinion, one of the ugliest labels my eyes have ever seen – it looks like it was made in Word! The worst thing is the glossy green font and a little drawing in the style of a Mulino Bianco cottage, made in the same color.
The winery is "Cantina del coppiere" and the vintage is 2011.
I am impatient and decide to taste it right away, this time pairing it with a magnificent carpaccio di orata marinata.
Already from the nose I am disappointed – no fruity, enveloping fragrance, nothing distinctive.
On the palate, rather than a Gewurztraminer it tastes more like a mediocre Falanghina – far be it from me to offend a type of wine, but I expect to drink what is written on the label.
In short, a wine not worth drinking – so, at least this time, mission failed and myth unbusted!

No surprise
Elena Walch thoroughly beats the budget Gewurztraminer.
Au fiedersen!