Trentino Alto Adige is a wonderful region in every respect: vast green landscapes that turn white in winter, a relaxed pace far from the stress of city life, and hospitable people.
During my last stay in the area, I decided to spend the night at the fantastic Hotel Panorama: a wonderful place, "flooded with light" and surrounded by greenery. It is located in the village of Termeno, home of Gewurztraminer, in the southern part of Alto Adige. A huge room, a large terrace overlooking endless vineyards, saunas and every comfort, paired with kindness and a breakfast unlike any other in terms of quantity, quality, and variety.
The property, together with the Garni Gartenheim and the Überbacherhof (other hospitality facilities), has been managed for two generations by the Posch Überbacher family, who come from a tradition of fruit-growing and viticulture; they love working outdoors, working in close contact with the people who are enchanted by this fairy-tale place, and explaining their work in the fields while showing visitors the family estates.
The Bed & Breakfast Panorama is furnished with natural materials and inside the property there is a shop unlike anything you will find elsewhere: here you will find quality honeys, wines (about which I will reveal nothing) and apple juices; none of it is done the way it is in other hotels – these are not industrial products, nor mere "side features" – here things are done well, with care.
I am welcomed with a glass of Gewurztraminer: a typical local product that, tasted at home, has a whole different flavor.
It is possible to take a free, walk-in tour of the vineyards, located about 150 meters from the property, where Jan will guide you through the small and wonderful stone cantina, letting you taste the four wines produced: Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Bianco, and Gewurztraminer.
I cannot resist the temptation to buy some honey and, above all, some wine, which I will taste a few months later.
About 8.5 hours' drive away, we will taste the Vernatsch, a grape variety known in Italy by the name of Schiava, in this case of the "gentile" variety; medium leaf, sparse pyramidal winged cluster, medium berry, tender skin with a tendency toward violet. The name of the grape variety derives from the method of vine cultivation: for some, it is the result of drastic pruning aimed at improving grape quality; for others, it comes from the practice of "enslaving" the vines by tying them.
On the eye, it presents a lively ruby red color; on the nose, Jan's Schiava is round – you can detect cherry, red fruits, and woodland undergrowth: everything you would expect from a full-bodied wine! On the palate, however, it surprises with an elegant, captivating, and enveloping body; a good but non-invasive structure; a very interesting acidity and a good persistence.
A truly elegant product – yes, "elegant" is exactly the word I would most associate with this wine; suited to refined palates.
The label, on the other hand, is the one thing that feels unpolished – noticeably out of tune with the contents; but, in a way, better to focus on substance!
To be enjoyed with white meats, but also with fish.
What do you think?
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