Schiava, the Lake Wine

We have already talked about Alto Adige by interviewing Max Niedermayr, President of the wine Consorzio of this splendid territory. We also reviewed the Alto Adige wines Gewurztraminer Kastelaz and Sauvignon Castel Ringberg by Elena Walch. We have thus learned that in Alto Adige independent producers coexist alongside large Cooperative Wineries, which have always been a fundamental reality in the development of viticulture in the region.

And today we will focus on one such Cooperative: the Cantina di Caldaro or Kellerei Kaltern – as the locals commonly call it – as well as one of its signature wines, produced from an indigenous grape variety, Schiava. The Cantina di Caldaro is a historic cooperative representing the entire municipality and its grape growers. The winery's wines are produced near Lago di Caldaro. These are wines with a long history, crafted by the Cantina since the early twentieth century – since the time when Alto Adige was an integral part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Today the Cantina is a wine cooperative representing 650 members and no fewer than 450 hectares of vineyards.

The terroir di Caldaro around the lake is very ancient, formed over millions of years with highly varied mineral compositions. Over this long period, quartz porphyry, dolomite, and light carbonate rocks have layered over fluvial gravel and other glacial moraine material from the Adige, forming the wine-growing soils subsequently terraced by human hands. The climate is favored by the mountains to the north, which prevent cold air from penetrating aggressively. From the south, the beneficial Mediterranean influence arrives, bringing mild temperatures and good sunshine – factors that promote optimal grape ripening and aromatic intensity.

As mentioned, today's wine is produced from a historic grape variety of the area, Schiava or Vernatsch. An indigenous grape, typical of the Lago di Caldaro area, Schiava remained out of the spotlight for a long time. It was unjustly underestimated due to the pale color of its wines, their low alcohol content, and their light body – characteristics out of fashion during a period when critics favored muscular wines with heavy barrique aging.

The Schiava from Cantina Caldaro discussed here belongs to the Quintessenz line. The wine is produced exclusively from the selection of grapes from the finest plots. We are talking about old vines (30 to 70 years old) located in the St. Josef locality with south-facing exposure, situated at an altitude between 230 and 500 meters above sea level, planted on well-drained, warm clay, gravelly, and calcareous soil.

The vintage tasted is 2017. After a dry winter and an early start to budbreak, there were some frosts up until the appearance of the first flower clusters in early May. The month of July, characterized by notable rainfall for the period, kicked off the final ripening phase. Harvest began as early as late August and concluded in early October.

In the winery, fermentation with maceration on the skins lasted 10 days at 25°C. This was followed by malolactic fermentation and aging on fine lees for six months in concrete and large wooden barrels. Let us now move on to the tasting notes.

Kalterersee Classico Superiore Quintessenz 2017

The color of this Schiava is a transparent ruby red, intense and crystalline. The nose is pleasantly elegant; we immediately detect characteristic fruity aromas of red fruits such as currant, cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry. Then macerated flowers with hints of bitter almond on the finish. On the palate it presents as dry, low in tannins, fairly warm with its 13% alcohol and lovely acidity, which keeps it balanced within its fairly substantial structure. Overall, good gustatory-olfactory persistence.

A wine that clearly aims for easy drinkability and can be just as easily paired with a typical Tyrolean specialty such as speck, but which, thanks to its versatility, can also accompany pasta dishes, fresh cow's milk cheeses, and white meats. Delightful.