Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi comes from the middle Esino valley, on the hills that rise from the town of Jesi towards the Apennines, in the provinces of Ancona and Macerata. The "castelli" are the fortified villages that dot the heights: Cupramontana, Staffolo, Montecarotto, Serra de' Conti, Apiro, Cingoli and the other municipalities of the appellation. It is one of Italy's best-known whites and the most important appellation of the Marche.
One area, many hills
The DOC was recognised in 1968. Vineyards cover about 1,478 hectares, with an output of 141,500 hectolitres. The Classico zone corresponds to the historic production area; the regulations also recognise 99 additional geographical units and the names of 18 municipalities, which may appear on the label to show exactly where the grapes come from. The more ambitious Riserva became a separate DOCG in 2010, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva.
One grape, four wines
All styles require at least 85% Verdicchio, with other white grapes to complete. The Bianco is the basic wine, while the Superiore has lower yields and greater concentration; minimum alcohol is 11.5%. There is also a Spumante, including a Riserva aged for at least three years, and a Passito from dried grapes, which ages for 8 to 13 months before release.
In the glass Verdicchio is straw yellow with green glints, with aromas of white flowers, apple, almond and anise, and the slightly bitter finish that is its signature. Its firm acidity allows it to develop well in bottle.
The white for fish
It is a wine made for the Adriatic seafood table: raw fish and seafood starters, risottos and soups, grilled fish, turbot, sea bass and roast monkfish. It also suits white meats, especially rabbit. In the Marche it shares the stage with Offida Pecorino and the red Conero.
