Monte Conero is the limestone promontory that plunges into the Adriatic south of Ancona, covered in Mediterranean scrub and overlooking the beaches of Sirolo and Numana. On its slopes and the nearby hills Montepulciano gives the most important red of the Marche coast. The area includes the whole of the municipalities of Ancona, Offagna, Camerano, Sirolo and Numana, and parts of Castelfidardo and Osimo. The DOC dates from 1967, the DOCG from 2004; vineyards cover about 173 hectares, with an output of 2,470 hectolitres.
The rules
The regulations require at least 85% Montepulciano, with Sangiovese up to 15%. There are two styles: the Riserva, which ages for at least two years and cannot be released before 1 November of the second year after the harvest, and the Rosato, which may be released from 1 January after the harvest. Minimum alcohol is 11%.
Conero Riserva is a deep ruby, almost opaque red, with aromas of sour cherry, plum, violet, liquorice, spice and a balsamic note of scrub; the tannins are robust, the structure substantial. The nearby sea and limestone soils give it freshness and savouriness. The Rosato is lighter and fruitier.
An ancient history
The area was inhabited by the Piceni, Etruscans and exiles from Syracuse, and preserves very old traces of the vine: at Matelica about 200 grape seeds were found in a tomb from the seventh century BC. Pliny the Elder described around a hundred vine varieties grown in Picenum and mentioned the "Pretoriano" wine made around Ancona, while the gastronome Apicius recalled an "anconetanum" wine, red and full-bodied.
At the table
The Riserva goes with Ancona-style brodetto fish stew in its tomato version, rabbit in porchetta, red meat, game and aged pecorino; the Rosato suits seafood pasta and cured meats. In the same province, further inland, comes the white Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, and further south Offida.
