The emotions of a Cuprese from 1992

Colonnara, a cooperative with 110 members, is a wonderful Marche-based producer located in the Castelli di Jesi area, in the municipality of Cupramontana. It is a producer deeply committed to enhancing the distinctive qualities of Verdicchio, a grape that never ceases to amaze us with the wines it produces. Surprising wines, certainly for their propensity to travel through time, but above all for their remarkable ability to evolve.

We stopped by their stand to let ourselves be amazed, as indeed happens regularly every year. The reason? The rare opportunity to taste some historic vintages of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Cuprese from magnum bottles, bottles that are uncorked for enthusiasts during the fair days. We are talking about a Verdicchio vinified in steel, which also spends a period on the lees. We tasted two vintages: a 2003 and a spectacular 1992.

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Cuprese 2003

A beautiful deep, crystalline golden yellow in color, the nose is characterized by prominent mineral notes, while aromas of ripe fruit and floral hints gradually emerge. But the real surprise of this wine is on the palate, where its freshness raises many questions about how this is even possible, considering the extremely warm vintage – not to mention that we are talking about an 11-year-old wine. It closes with an enamel-like finish.

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Cuprese 1992

A luminous, very deep golden yellow, the wine offers a complex nose of resin, white pepper, tropical fruit jam, acacia honey, and mineral echoes on the finish. The sip strikes for the perfect balance of its components, where softness and alcohol blend seamlessly with the fresh-savory side, keeping this wine vibrant and thoroughly enjoyable. Mature, contemplative, and still surprisingly long on the palate.

When you taste a wine of over twenty years – and moreover a white aged solely in steel like this Verdicchio – all you can do is listen to your own emotions.

I would like to add a personal note. A couple of years ago I purchased a few bottles of the vintage that was on the market at the time (2011). Bottles that I have carefully "forgotten" in the cellar...