The Colli Bolognesi DOC covers the hills south of Bologna, with a strip in the province of Modena, in Emilia-Romagna. Recognised by the decree of 29 July 1975, it now has about 78 hectares and an output of 3,840 hectolitres. Its recent history is one of spin-offs: in 2010 Colli Bolognesi Classico Pignoletto became a DOCG in its own right, and from 2014 the Grechetto Gentile wines called Pignoletto moved to the new Pignoletto DOC.
An ancient history
Pliny the Elder, in the «Naturalis historia», records that the hills of Bologna produced a sparkling, «albano», that is blond, wine, not sweet enough for Roman taste. In the early Middle Ages viticulture was preserved by the monks. In the early fourteenth century Pier de' Crescenzi, in his treatise on agronomy, described the «pignoletto» drunk at the time, appreciated for its lively, golden foam. The first land registers of the area date from 1250, and the statute of Bologna ordered the building of a «Road of wines» to carry the wines of the hills safely to the city.
The styles
Today the DOC is made up mainly of varietal wines, with at least 85% of the grape: among the whites Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Riesling Italico and Sauvignon; among the reds Barbera, also frizzante, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The Bologna subzone also produces a Bianco, with at least 50% Sauvignon, a Rosso, with at least 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Spumante with at least 40% Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. The Rosso Bologna and the Barbera may be Riserva, with at least three years of ageing, five months of them in bottle. Minimum alcohol is 11%.
The whites are fresh and aromatic, with Sauvignon bringing vegetal and citrus notes; Barbera gives lively, fruity reds, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot more structured wines.
At the table
The whites go with mortadella, tortellini in broth and crescentine; the frizzante Barbera with cured meats and fried food; the reds with tagliatelle al ragù, boiled meats and roasts. In the same region, towards Piacenza, lies the Gutturnio DOC, another land of Barbera.
