Cesanese del Piglio, also simply called Piglio, is the most important red of Lazio and the region's only red DOCG. It comes from the province of Frosinone, in northern Ciociaria, on the hills of the municipalities of Piglio, Serrone, Acuto, Anagni and Paliano, between the Ernici mountains and the Sacco valley. The DOC dates from 1973, the DOCG from 2008. Vineyards cover about 142 hectares, with an output of 4,270 hectolitres.
A grape of Lazio
The regulations require at least 90% Cesanese, in its two varieties Cesanese Comune and Cesanese di Affile, the latter considered the finer. It is a native grape, grown almost only in this part of Lazio, giving fragrant wines with good structure and lively tannins. Minimum alcohol is 12%.
Three styles
The Rosso is the youngest version and may be released from 1 February after the harvest. The Superiore is released from 1 July of the year after the harvest. The Superiore Riserva ages for at least 20 months, 6 of them in bottle. In the glass Cesanese is ruby red, with aromas of cherry, sour cherry, small berries, violet and pepper; with age come notes of sweet spice and tobacco.
Centuries of documents
The cultivation of Cesanese can be traced over the centuries through rich documentation. The first evidence comes from the Latin agricultural writers; for the Middle Ages there are farming contracts kept in local monasteries and notarial deeds in the chapter archive of Anagni. On 30 May 1479 the Statutes of the Land of Piglio were issued, with several chapters devoted to vines and wine. In 1838 the ledger of the Abbey of Subiaco records the Cesanese harvest at Subiaco and Piglio.
At the table it goes with the cooking of Ciociaria: fettuccine with meat sauce, abbacchio, grilled lamb and sausages, pecorino cheeses. Among the region's wines it is the red counterpoint to the whites of the Castelli Romani and Frascati Superiore.
