The Castelli Romani are the towns on the Alban Hills, the volcanic massif that rises south-east of Rome among crater lakes and chestnut woods. For centuries they have been the capital's cellar: this is where the white wines poured in Roman taverns came from. The Castelli Romani appellation, recognised in 1996, covers a broad territory in the province of Rome and gathers the area's wines that fall outside older municipal appellations such as Frascati.
An umbrella DOC
Registered vineyards cover about 1,044 hectares, with an output of 84,900 hectolitres. Minimum alcohol is 10.5% and the regulations set no minimum ageing: these are wines meant to be drunk young. The volcanic soils, rich in potassium and well drained, bring freshness and savouriness.
Whites, reds and rosés
The Bianco requires at least 70% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio (Malvasia Puntinata) and Trebbiano, and may be dry, frizzante or medium-sweet. The Rosso calls for at least 85% Cesanese, Merlot, Montepulciano, Nero Buono and Sangiovese, alone or together; it also comes as a Novello. The Rosato may use the same grapes in any proportion.
The whites have aromas of flowers and yellow fruit and a savoury finish; the reds are soft and fruity, with light tannins. They are wines for the country taverns and Roman cooking: Ariccia porchetta, artichokes, pasta all'amatriciana, abbacchio lamb.
Lazio in a glass
For anyone wanting to understand the wines of Lazio, the Castelli Romani are the place to start. Alongside the umbrella DOC, the historic towns have their own appellations, and the area's most ambitious white today is Frascati Superiore DOCG.
