The Biferno DOC takes its name from the river that crosses Molise and flows down to the Adriatic. The area includes some forty municipalities in the province of Campobasso, from the regional capital to Larino, Guglionesi, Campomarino and Termoli on the coast. Recognised by the decree of 26 April 1983, it has about 48 hectares and an output of 2,950 hectolitres.
An ancient viticulture
The vine has been known in this area since the time of the Greeks, with a wine called Paetrutianum, and Pliny speaks of a famous wine made from a vine called pumula. In the Middle Ages cultivation took hold in the shadow of the feudal castles. In 1836 Giuseppe del Re wrote that the vineyards, «almost all planted on hills and knolls», totalled 56,948 moggi, about 4,000 hectares, with various kinds of grapes ripening at different times.
The rules
The Rosso and the Rosato share the same base: 70 to 80% Montepulciano, 10 to 20% Aglianico and other red grapes up to 20%. The Rosso may also be Superiore and Riserva; the Riserva ages for at least three years and may not be released before 1 November of the third year after the harvest. The Bianco is made from 70-80% Trebbiano Toscano and other white grapes. Minimum alcohol is 10.5%.
Montepulciano gives the Rosso colour, dark fruit and softness; Aglianico adds tannin and acidity, and with the Riserva's ageing notes of spice and leather. The Rosato is fresh and fruity, the Bianco light and savoury.
At the table
The Bianco goes with fish from the Termoli coast and vegetables; the Rosato with cured meats and tomato-based first courses; the Rosso with lamb, grilled meat, cavatelli with meat sauce and cheeses such as caciocavallo. Across the border to the north lies the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC; to the south-east, in Apulia, the San Severo DOC.
