Cataldi Madonna: quality from the "Forno d'Abruzzo"

Cataldi Madonna, one of the most beautiful wine estates in Abruzzo, is located near Ofena, in the so-called Forno d'Abruzzo. It is a small amphitheater-shaped plateau situated just below the Calderone, the southernmost glacier in the Apennines. This particular location of the winery means that the air coming down from the mountain cools the scorching summer days, when temperatures exceed 40°C, creating very favorable temperature swings for the development of aromas in the grapes.

The estate is territorially located in an Abruzzo enclave that has historically been linked to the Medici dynasty. It began producing wine in the 1920s, but has been bottling for just under forty years thanks to Antonio Cataldi Madonna, the father of the current owner. The nearly 30 hectares of vineyard are located at about 400 m above sea level and are cultivated predominantly with native grape varieties such as Montepulciano, Pecorino and Trebbiano, which express their finest characteristics in this area. Production stands at around 250,000 bottles.

At the Trimani wine shop in Rome we met Luigi Cataldi Madonna, an academic philosopher called back to a land in which he has strongly believed for a quarter of a century. With him, winemaker Lorenzo Landi, the estate's consultant and advocate of reductive vinification.
And with them we tasted a representative sample of the estate's production consisting of 5 splendid wines:

1. Il Pecorino Giulia 2013;
2. Il Pecorino 2011;
3. Il Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 2013;
4. Il Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Malandrino 2012;
5. Il Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Tonì 2010.

Let's look at them in detail.
1. the Pecorino Giulia was dedicated to Luigi's daughter, who is about to join the company. It is produced from a recently planted vineyard (only about a dozen years old) with a density of 5,000 vines per hectare and a yield of 80 q/ha. In the winery, cold maceration is carried out at temperatures close to 0°C to allow the best extraction of aromas. The Pecorino grape is rich in mercaptan compounds which, by vinifying the grapes reductively – thus in the absence of oxygen – are transferred to the wine, characterizing it in terms of taste and aroma. The wine stands out for its aromas of citrus, grapefruit, passion fruit, broom flowers and aromatic herbs. On the palate, a fresh-savory zing leaves the mouth clean. A wine for appetizers or fish-based preparations.

2. the Pecorino from the 2011 vintage, unlike the Giulia, is produced from nearly 25-year-old vines, with a planting density of 2,600 vines per hectare and a yield of only 60 q/ha. The cold maceration and reductive vinification are very similar to those followed for the production of the previous sample. The wine then rests for several months in bottle before being released to market. The product's profile is characterized by deeper, more mineral notes that over time will evolve toward hydrocarbon tones. An important wine that pairs very well with equally important seafood dishes, such as a rombo in crosta di patate.

3. the Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo is the quintessential wine of Abruzzo tradition. Subjected to cold maceration, it ferments at 15–18°C in contact with the skins for a few hours, before the must is separated from them. With its typical crystalline cherry color, on the nose we perceive hints of red fruit, strawberry and raspberries; then a fairly persistent floral finish of rose. On the palate, the acidity stands out, making the wine particularly suitable for serving throughout the meal. In my opinion, it pairs well with the richness of fried foods.

4. the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Malandrino is made with grapes from multiple vineyards planted at different times and with various densities per hectare. The goal pursued was to produce a great, pure Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that would not be conditioned by any wood aging. In fact, after nearly three weeks of maceration and after completing malolactic fermentation, the wine matures in cement and steel before being bottled. The wine, born in '97 as a blend with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, over time was first reduced to only Montepulciano grapes, then definitively abandoned the use of wood. Today this Montepulciano is appreciated for its crisp fruitiness, with clear notes of sour cherry and black cherry together with hints of violet, coffee and interesting balsamic aromas. On the palate it is characterized by an easy-drinking quality that is never banal, making it absolutely suitable for accompanying an entire meal of Abruzzo cuisine.

5. the Montepulciano Tonì, named in honor of the producer's father, is a wine of a higher and more austere profile. The low yields per hectare in the vineyard guarantee very high quality fruit, quality that we then find in the wine. In the winery, after the first week of vigorous fermentation, the must undergoes slow maceration for another approximately 20 days with numerous pump-overs. After racking, the wine ages in first, second and third-passage barriques for 12 months and for a further 18 in bottle. On the nose we perceive elegant and deep aromas, where spicy and balsamic notes prevail over jammy fruit. On the palate, the finesse of the tannin and the lively freshness stand out, presaging a long life for this wine, which displays decidedly important persistence and structure. A wine that can accompany typical game-based dishes.

I bid farewell to Luigi, thanking him for the emotions made possible by his wines, having promised myself to leave a record of our meeting.