Perda Pintà: Barbagia on the skins or not?

Today we'll talk about two different twins: Perda Pintà and Perda Pintà sulle bucce from Cantina Giuseppe Sedilesu.

But first, let us introduce you to a not-so-well-known grape variety, a native Sardinian from which both wines are made: we're talking about Granazza (or Granatza).

A white grape variety overshadowed by the better-known (red) Cannonau and always kept in its background. The vines grow mainly in Mamoiada, the area where cantina Sedilesu is located, but also in Orgosolo and Oliena.

An ancient variety too often described as "suited for priests and women" because of its pleasant, easy-drinking character.

The variety was rediscovered by the Sedilesu family, who since 2002 have been vinifying these grapes as a single varietal, both with and without skin contact; while many Sardinian producers used this nectar to make their non-D.O.C. Cannonau lighter and more approachable.

This too happens in Sardinia: one very famous grape variety, Cannonau, but many excellent native varieties (around 150) that are semi-unknown, and about ten still unclassified.

Before tasting, a few notes on production methods: Sedilesu (winery link), an organic and biodynamic producer, works with minimal use of sulfites, the must is not heated, only native yeasts are used, and nothing is filtered.

From these vines over fifty years old, trained in the alberello style, the Perda Pintà wines are born!

The Perda Pintà 2013 is aged in exhausted barriques and then spends 3 months in the bottle. It has an intense golden yellow color, citrus notes, hints of anise, with pineapple and apple coming through. It is a warm, rounded and very mineral wine, fresh and savory despite a perceptible residual sugar, well suited to pairings with white meats and cheeses. Its price is around 20 euros at a wine shop.

The Perda Pintà sulle bucce is a 2012, left to ferment on the skins for seven days, and thanks to this step it gains richness and reaches great aromatic complexity. This wine also ages in barriques for 24 months (longer than its classic version) and rests at least twelve months in the bottle. It has a very unusual color for a white wine – many would suspect all sorts of problems! It is an orange/reddish hue that almost recalls a Marsala! Wild and elegant – if it were a cartoon princess, it would be Pocahontas!

We are tasting an extreme wine, one you cannot drink every day, a white at 16°C in the "Sardinian way." Aromatically, gentian comes through strongly, along with dried fruit, candied citrus, white flowers, anise, resin, rosemary and acacia honey. It retains an interesting acidity, has a well-present and decisive body, and proves complex. Fine but explosive tannins worthy of an excellent red, and the finish is very long. I appreciated it greatly – it is one of those wines that you either love or simply cannot drink! That is why only a few bottles are produced and it costs around 40 euros.

For prepared palates only.