The meeting on Friday, May 22, 2015 at the AIS headquarters in Tivoli with producer Stefano Casadei was an opportunity to get to know a reserved but determined figure in the wine world, pursuing three ambitious projects united by the same philosophy: Quality from the land to the wine.
The three estates are: - Castello del Trebbio, a magnificent 1400s property of 350 hectares in the heart of the Chianti Fiorentino; a castle known for having been the setting of the Pazzi Conspiracy against the de' Medici family; - Tenuta Casa Dei, in Suvereto (LI) in Southern Tuscany with its 15 hectares under organic management; - Azienda Agricola Olianas in Gergei in Sardinia, 60 km from Cagliari, where across 14 hectares of land the native varieties Cannonau, Bovale, Carignano and Vermentino, Nasco and Malvasia reign supreme.
Casadei, who specialized in Enology at the faculties of Bordeaux and Montpellier, pursues what he himself defines as the Biointegrale method, an ethical farming protocol whose environmental stewardship represents the perfect balance between the recovery of traditional methods and modern scientific research. Research that led him to rediscover an ancient winemaking practice such as amphora wine, through which a figure like Josko Gravner has built his celebrity within the wine world. Inside the amphorae, the grapes transform into wine naturally, free from winemaking techniques that risk homogenizing taste, instead enhancing the characteristics of the terroir.
The wines tasted, conducted admirably by an AIS instructor, were seven, and I list them here in the order in which they were served to those attending the seminar.
Vermentino di Sardegna DOC - Azienda Olianas -
From Vermentino grapes grown on the estate in vineyards at 400 m altitude. The strong temperature variations give the wine minerality and structure supported by an acidic backbone. The 15 days of skin maceration give the wine a golden color with greenish glints and vivid luminosity. It ages for 6–8 months in steel and barrique.
The aromas of broom and white peach, along with good persistence and delicate aromaticity, make it a perfect aperitif wine and ideal for delicate fish-based dishes.
Bianco della Congiura Toscana IGT - Azienda Castello del Trebbio -
This wine represents the challenge of producing a great white in a territory known for structured red wines.
The cooler soils of the estate have given the Pinot grigio, Riesling and Manzoni bianco the freshness and savouriness needed to produce an elegant wine, followed by aging in steel and barrique.
The aromatic notes make this white an excellent companion for saltimbocca alla romana, where the sage used in the preparation pairs beautifully with the wine's aromaticity.
Rosato Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
Born from a careful selection of the finest Cannonau grapes on the estate.
It stands out for its beautiful coral color and minerality.
On the palate, freshness accompanies evident notes of pomegranate and myrtle. Perfect with zuppa alla Gallurese.
Cannonau DOC Sardegna
Produced with 95% Cannonau and 5% Tintillu, this wine perfectly embodies the peculiarities of the territory and the grape variety.
It presents itself visually with a light ruby red; on the palate, prominent notes of rosemary, myrtle and Mediterranean scrub stand out. Evident ripe fruit accompanied by a pleasant freshness.
It ages in steel and second-passage barrique for 8–10 months. Try it with maialino sardo.
Sangiovese Anfora
Inside buried amphorae of 8 hl, the grapes transform into wine naturally, with native yeasts and without temperature control for twenty days. The result is an extremely original product that strikes for its frankness and strong personality.
It matures in a 5 hl amphora for approximately 8 months and is then bottled without fining or filtration.
Clear notes of ripe fruit, with a not overly expressive nose. A wine not easy to read. For wine insiders.
Sogno Mediterraneo Toscana IGT
On the estate in Suvereto, in Tuscany, this blend of Sirah, Grenache and Mourvedre is born.
The focus has been on quality with a high planting density reaching 7,500 vines per hectare, aiming not to exceed one kilo to one kilo and 200 grams per plant.
It ages in new and second-passage barrique for 10–12 months. Spiced notes reminiscent of fresh tobacco, leather and mushrooms.
A marriage made in heaven with a lightly cooked Chianina steak.
Lastricato Chianti Rufina DOCG Riserva
A true Sangiovese! Produced from the finest selection of vineyards at Castello del Trebbio.
It ages in 20 hl oak barrels for 30–36 months to obtain a wine of great elegance, evolved, with hints of coffee, wood and undergrowth.
Complex and long-lived, it will admirably accompany preparations with game and dark meats. Prosit.
What do you think?
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