The people, the production methods, the company philosophy and the desire to stand out by returning to origins, enhancing the territory and focusing on native varieties (even overlooked ones like Granazza) sparked our interest in Cantina Giuseppe Sedilesu. Today we will taste their Cannonau. When it comes to single-varietal Cannonau, I can't help but recall my father's words: "It's hard to find good ones, but when you do, they drive you crazy"; according to Giuseppe Sedilesu, this is because of the volume of "flatland" product with high yields that floods the market.
Today we will cover all of their Cannonau wines, with the exception of Eressia, the rosé.
We remind you that Sedilesu uses minimal sulfites, cultivates using the alberello system, does not filter, uses only native yeasts and is not fond of racking; part of the grapes, around 40% of those being processed, are purchased locally, and the vines can exceed 100 years of age, all situated at approximately 600–700 metres above sea level.
Cannonau is the most widely cultivated red grape variety in the Nuoro area, and it is at these elevations that it achieves, especially when vinified as a single varietal, the right balance between polyphenols, acids and alcohol. Cannonau has a fairly high alcohol content and is a very full-bodied wine that pairs well with stuffed pasta, recipes based on lamb and mutton, roasted meats, porceddu arrosto and of course the classic pecorino sardo.
"For us, talking about vines and wine means talking about Cannonau – the colour of its foliage, the shape of its clusters, the low alberello training system, the flavour of the grapes, the scent of the must. The colour, the aromas, the taste of the wine are embodied within us and form an integral part of our culture."
Cannonau di Sardegna D.O.C. Sartiu 2012
This is their entry-level product, priced at around 8–10 euros, and comes from the youngest vines (3–15 years). It is left for 24 months in cement tanks and large oak barrels, then spends 2 months in the bottle.
Its colour is bold, intense and impenetrable, yet elegant despite being full-bodied and round, with excellent drinkability marked by mineral and citrus notes.
A versatile wine, suitable even for simple dishes and with pecorino sardo.
Cannonau di Sardegna D.O.C. Mamuthone 2012
We are in the home of the Mamuthones, a traditional mask that, during the feast of Sant'Antonio Abate, breathes new life into the area with parades, neighbourhood competitions around bonfires and tastings of new wine and local products.
That also explains the label! The wine is made from vines aged between 15 and 60 years. Ruby red, lighter in shade, with hints of myrtle, cherry, blackberry, earthy notes, nutmeg, juniper and a balsamic touch; a balanced, tannic palate with a rather long and enveloping finish with hints of liquorice.
A wine with a significant alcohol content of 15°! Price in wine shops: 13–16 euros – excellent. Well suited to game and red meat dishes.
Cannonau di Sardegna D.O.C. Ballu Tundu 2010
A pure Cannonau Riserva obtained from grapes from a single vineyard of 50–100 year old vines in the locality of Garaunele at approximately 650 metres above sea level. Ballu Tundu matures for 24 months in large barrels and spends one year in bottle in an underground tunnel, sheltered from light, noise and temperature fluctuations.
Deep red in colour, on the nose it is complex, spicy and citrusy. Graphite, tobacco and green pepper can be detected.
This is a wine that can age, with an important and powerful body, yet also agile. A very tannic product with an extremely long finish. It can be found in wine shops for 23–28 euros. Red meats, chicken curry and roast duck are the recommended pairings.
Cannonau di Sardegna D.O.C. Riserva Carnevale 2011
Described as "modern" by the winery due to the different techniques used, it is crafted using small barrels, 10% of which are new, where it rests for 14–16 months before spending at least 6 months in bottle.
It presents an intense ruby red colour with garnet reflections.
On the nose: morello cherry, marasca cherry, cherry, graphite and vanilla.
A round, marsala-like, almost intentionally oxidised wine, warm and sweeter than its predecessors. Price in wine shops: 18–24 euros. Best paired with red meats and game.
Cannonau di Sardegna D.O.C. Grassia 2011
The name comes from the dedication to his mother Grazia. It is a warm, dense wine, in the Sardinian tradition.
On the nose: sour cherries, red fruits, dried apricots. It has a higher residual sugar than the others but retains a good acidity. Best paired with aged cheeses.
Cannonau di Sardegna D.O.C. Giuseppe Sedilesu
Dedicated to the founding father of the winery – the crown jewel of the cantina! Born from a selection of the finest berries from the oldest vines.
Ruby red in colour, on the nose there are strong notes of undergrowth, blackcurrant and red fruits, with hints of myrtle, vanilla and liquorice. On the palate it retains great acidity, a sign that this is a wine that can age considerably; it has an elegant and ever-present tannin that envelops the entire palate. A powerful yet elegant wine, appealing and captivating.
The winery commits to releasing it on the market only in vintages that "deserve" the name of Giuseppe.
It retails in wine shops for approximately 38–44 euros. I would revisit it in a few years – it has the potential to deliver great satisfaction.
What do you think?
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