Journey through Carso and Collio

The summer season is over and finally so is the grueling work season. Autumn begins, a prelude to colder temperatures and heavier clothes, and the euphoria of a little vacation emerges – a chance to leave the fatigue and stress of work behind and recharge a bit. The destination had already been considered and after many postponements, here we are: we're heading to Trieste, the Collio Goriziano, the Slovenian Carso, and Ljubljana.

I'm going to visit places and lands that have witnessed the succession of different rulers (the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Italy, Yugoslavia) and that were the theater of battles during both world wars – facts that make these territories truly unique. The echo of exploded bombs and artillery fire returns when visiting the contemporary history museums of Ljubljana and crossing the hills of the Carso and Collio, where one feels compelled to bow one's head in respect for the many men who fell in sacrifice for their homeland. A land so rich in history and at the same time varied from a geographical standpoint, where valleys and hills alternate.

The Carso Triestino is a plateau rich in vegetation that rises from the coast of the Gulf of Trieste; from Lisert (4m above sea level) the terrain rises gently toward the southeast up to the plain of Basovizza (400m above sea level), continuing on to Val Rosandra. The Carso Triestino encompasses a 25 km strip within the border, but the other part extends mostly into the Republic of Slovenia.

The area is composed mainly of a rock formation characterized by a high calcium carbonate content, which gives the territory an absolutely unique geological structure. In particular, in contact with rainwater and the consequent erosion of the soil at the surface level, the geomorphological phenomenon of Karst occurs. There are indeed many natural caves rich in stalactites and stalagmites that can be visited, and some are of truly considerable size, becoming natural heritage recognized by UNESCO, such as the grotte di Postumia, where, guided by experts able to provide all possible information, one can walk several kilometers through the natural underground tunnels.
Worthy of note are the gastronomic specialties that can be savored and, to the delight of us enthusiasts, the wines that can be sipped. A first encounter with the local cuisine was in Trieste, at the tables of the Osteria "Buffet da Pepi", where I tried a plate of bollito misto di carne with mustard and a grating of fresh horseradish, all naturally washed down with a generous glass of Terrano. This is where my hypercaloric diet officially begins!

Before crossing the border, I decide to visit Benjamin Zidarich's estate in the Carso Triestino; here I am captivated by the natural production philosophy, the beauty of the cellar, and the exquisite warmth of Benjamin, who, when I asked him: "who is your enologist?", answered with a surprised look: "what enologist? I do everything myself here!". This was the calling card of a straightforward people, the Carso people, who make no compromises and whose watchword is: Nature – respecting even what it cannot give and waiting for the best vintage. The estate has just a few hectares and enjoys a magnificent view over the valley: being able to stop there during the summer and drink a glass of good wine on the terrace is priceless.
Accompanied by a kind young woman and listening to the must fermenting, we toured the beautiful cellar where layers of marl and limestone are left exposed. Afterward, Mr. Zidarich has us taste his wines, which include five types: la Malvasia, la Vitovska, il Prulke, il Teran and il Ruje. In this area, producers are increasingly pursuing the path of extended maceration on the skins, so much so that these wines have come to be called "extreme" – also due to the absence of corrections and the addition of selected yeasts – a philosophy that therefore gives one pause. Tasting the Malvasia, one immediately notices a distinct sapidity, mineral hints, and crisp, ripe fruit; even the color speaks volumes about the nature of these products, with a not entirely clear golden yellow, best enjoyed at a temperature of 15°.

Next comes the Vitovska, an autochthonous grape variety that strikes with its freshness and finesse of taste. The third wine, il Prulke, a blend of Sauvignon, Vitovska, and Malvasia, surprises with its long persistence and the lack of dominance of one variety over another, owing to the harvest at full grape ripeness.
The red wines arrive and we begin with the Terrano, which stands out for its generosity of fruit – primarily dark berries such as blueberries and blackberries – but also for a pronounced freshness. The last tasting shifts to the Ruje, composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Terrano; here we are faced with a wine with intentionally more complex characteristics derived from a three-year passage in Slavonian oak: a wine therefore suited to dishes rich in structure and flavor. The tasting was accompanied by excellent prosciutto (sliced by knife, as tradition dictates) and Carso cheese.

With regret we leave the estate and the people who welcomed us with such warmth, but not without taking home some souvenirs and above all some bottles! The journey continues and other estates await us, but I'll tell you about that next time. Goodbye everyone!