The Carso is a rocky limestone plateau stretching across north-eastern Italy, in the provinces of Gorizia and Trieste, into Western Slovenia, Northern Istria, and continuing to the north-west of Croatia. Limestone rocks, notoriously soluble due to the action of certain atmospheric agents, such as carbonic acid contained in rainwater, are shaped over time and take on breathtaking forms while also influencing the composition of the soils.
Here grow oaks, stone pines, wild roses, thyme, juniper and of course our beloved vines!
In the Slovenian part of this region, in the village of Gorjansko, about five kilometres from the sea, lies the estate of Vasja Cotar, which we have already discussed in the article about his excellent Vitovska.
Vasja's family initially was also involved in the restaurant business, but then decided to dedicate themselves entirely to the vine, running the osteria by reservation only.
First production in 1988: since then very little of the winemaking process has changed! Tradition is followed and white wines are produced using the same criteria as the reds!
During maceration the grapes are not chilled, no enzymes are added, not even the must is cooled, and they aim – almost always successfully – to avoid using sulphites.
The evocative cantina is carved into the living rock and represents a kind of "river of wine": from the must to the finished product, the various stages of winemaking move progressively deeper into the cave.
Ageing takes place in used barrels ranging in size from 225 to 2,000 litres; here the whites remain for 2–3 years and the reds for at least 4–5.
No wine is filtered, so as not to "impoverish" it, and for this reason Cotar wines present sediment inside the bottles.
We are talking about natural wines – unique and unforgettable.
Today we will drink Bela: a metodo classico that is not disgorged. Bela simply means "white sparkling wine" without frills, just like Vasja. Four days on the skins, addition of passito from 2011, and the indication – as with all Cotar wines – of any quantity of sulphites added. The colour is an intense straw yellow; the perlage is dense and fine, if not continuous; on the nose, fresh fruit, peach, apricot, raisins, yeast, bread crust, butter. On the palate it is fresh, with excellent acidity and good balance. A wine with a long finish, elegant and assertive – it is certainly not a commonplace product, quite the contrary.
An excellent aperitif, a fine table companion when paired with cured meats and cheeses, but it also shows well alongside fish-based dishes; what matters is that it be drunk by a palate capable of appreciating it.
What do you think?
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