Ortona is a port town on the Adriatic coast of Abruzzo, in the province of Chieti, surrounded by vineyard hills running down to the sea. The Ortona appellation, recognised in 2011, covers the whole municipal territory and is tiny: about 4 registered hectares. It was created to give a name of their own to the wines of one of the historic areas of Abruzzo viticulture.
Two wines, two grapes
The Bianco requires at least 70% Trebbiano, Abruzzese or Tuscan; it may be released from 1 January after the harvest. The Rosso requires at least 95% Montepulciano and is released from 1 March. Minimum alcohol is 12%.
The Bianco has aromas of white flowers, apple and citrus, with the savouriness brought by the nearby sea. The Rosso is full and fruity, with black cherry, plum, spice and soft tannins.
A history of trade
The Greek historian Polybius, who lived between 205 and 123 BC, is credited with the first testimony on Abruzzo wines, in his account of Hannibal's exploits after the victory at Cannae in 216 BC. From the thirteenth century evidence multiplies: in August 1200 a notarial deed in Venice set up a "colleganza", a trade contract between Venice, Ancona, Ortona and Slavonia. Between the late eighteenth and mid-nineteenth centuries the "lagrima rossa di Ortona" was famous, and in 1836 Baron Giovanni Nicola Durini wrote that Ortona's wines were "the best of the province and of Abruzzo".
At the table
The Bianco goes with Vasto-style brodetto, Adriatic fish, scrippelle and fresh cheeses; the Rosso with arrosticini skewers, lamb, ragù and aged pecorino. For the province's more widespread wines there are the regional DOCs Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.
