If you'll allow me to define terroir as the union between man – a deep connoisseur of his own territory – and the grapes through which he manages to convey its peculiarities and express their full potential, then in this case we are certainly looking at a great expression of terroir.
The grape variety in question, a vehicle of elegance, is the Trebbiano giallo, mentioned for its quality by the naturalist Giuseppe Acerbi and described as a grape with "firm and sugary flesh".
Cultivated in many regions such as Lazio, Lombardia, but also Puglia, Umbria and Veneto, it finds its natural home in the province of Viterbo, specifically in the area of Montefiascone.
In these parts it is better known as Roscetto due to the "almost red" color the skin of the berry takes on when ripe, and it is an integral component – alongside Trebbiano toscano and Malvasia puntinata – of the most representative DOC of the area: the Est Est Est di Montefiascone, in which it is required in a proportion ranging from 25 to 40%.
Particularly elegant is the version of this traditional wine from Lazio offered by cantina Falesco in the cru "Poggio dei Gelsi", where Roscetto predominates at 40% over the other two varieties, which are expressed in equal proportion to each other.
Thanks to careful vineyard management, cultivation on select lapillo soils, and winery techniques that allow for the extraction of the aromatic fraction contained in the skins, this grape gives its full contribution to a wine that – in addition to being able to age over a rather long period for its type (if well cellared: up to two years) – presents itself as balanced and fresh, with standout floral notes and hints of ripe fruit, and a mineral finish that subtly evokes the volcanic soils of the area around Lake Bolsena where it is grown.
If, however, you want to know how Roscetto can express itself as a soloist, you must try Ferentano, the varietal version offered by the cantina of the fratelli Cotarella.
This full-bodied wine is at once sumptuous and exuberant.
With its golden yellow color, the glass opens up with aromas of exotic fruits and citrus, well blended with a subtle note of melted butter that tempers the fruity hints, making the wine captivating and the nose ready to catch an entirely mineral finish with references to flint – the typical marker of the relationship between this grape variety and the lakeside hills.
On the palate it perfectly reprises the progression described above, maintaining good acidity and delivering an extremely long gustatory persistence.
To be tried with countless dishes of the most varied kinds: from roasts of white meat or fish, to more complex preparations with a sweet-and-sour flavor.
What do you think?
Log in to leave a comment