Barolo Castellero Fratelli Barale: vertical tasting 2011 - 1985

I attended the Life of Wine event in Rome, where wines from some of the most important wineries on the national wine scene were being tasted. The distinctive feature of Life of Wine is that participating estates present at least two historic vintages of their chosen wine, in addition to the currently available release.

During my tasting session I lingered over the vertical of Barolo Castellero from Fratelli Barale, a winery I had the privilege of visiting in the spring of 2015. The cantina is located right in the heart of Barolo, in a 19th-century palazzo with an entrance beneath an arched vault. The cellars house the spaces dedicated to winemaking and aging, including historic large barrels.

Fratelli Barale was founded in Barolo in 1870 by Francesco Barale, owner of vineyards in some of the most prized areas of the commune as well as on the Bussia hillside in Monforte d'Alba. At the time, modern Barolo had only recently been created thanks to the Marchesa Colbert Falletti and Camillo Benso with the support of winemaker Louis Oudart, as I recounted after the visit to Marchesi di Barolo that also took place during those days nearly two years ago. But traces of the Barale family can be found as far back as 1600, as evidenced by ancient parish records. At that time the Barale family already owned vineyards in Barolo in the areas of Castellero, Cannubi, Preda and Costa di Rose. In more recent times, Fratelli Barale was among the first to vinify Nebbiolo in purity from single vineyards. Today it is Sergio Barale and his daughters Gloria and Eleonora who run the estate. It was Eleonora herself who welcomed me to the cantina during my trip to the Langhe.

The estate spans a planted area of 20 hectares farmed under organic management: composting with manure, manual weeding, and the installation of nesting boxes for insectivorous birds are among the best practices implemented to protect indigenous flora and fauna and to preserve the soil in harmony with nature. Seven hectares are planted to Nebbiolo for Barolo: four facing southwest for the Castellero vineyard, at least 35 years old, which gives rise to the wine we are about to discuss; one hectare each for the crus Preda, Costa di Rose and Bussia, which still represent – as they did over a century ago – the heart of the estate. To these is added a plot of Nebbiolo for Barbaresco at Serraboella (in the commune of Neive).

The Castellero is produced from predominantly clay soils with old vines. Less productive Nebbiolo clones are also used, namely Michet and Rosè, alongside Lampia. The vineyard, trained to Guyot with a planting density of 3,500 vines per hectare, is subject to constant green pruning and cluster thinning, carried out by hand. In the cellar, the winemaking and aging processes for Barolo Castellero – as for the estate's other Barolos – maintain a traditional approach. The wine ferments in truncated conical wooden vats using indigenous yeasts selected from the Castellero vineyard. It then undergoes further maceration for approximately one month with frequent pump-overs. It then ages for three years in French oak casks of 15–30 hectoliters in the underground cellars, where the temperature remains constantly cool, and in bottle for at least one year.

Let us move on to the vertical tasting.

Barolo Castellero 2011

We begin with the 2011 vintage, a warm and early year that caused a significant advance in spring vegetative development. After the hot summer, the favorable September rains encouraged the completion of ripening in Nebbiolo, a late-ripening variety, improving both acidity and aromatics.

The 2011 presents itself with transparent ruby hues, painting a picture of refined elegance. The aromatic response is precise, with a fruity nose of plum, cherry jam and blood orange, followed by violet and peony. Notes of liquorice and china bark then emerge, along with thyme, bergamot and balsamic nuances on the finish. The warm vintage shows more on the palate, with a velvety body and concentrated tannins at mid-palate, though well-polished. Acidity is nonetheless very much present. Almost in balance but still in tension, given its extreme youth and the great evolutionary potential that lies ahead.

Barolo Castellero Riserva 2007

The 2007 vintage saw an unusual climatic pattern with very early budbreak due to a particularly mild winter. On the contrary, August recorded below-average temperatures, slowing the advance of grape ripening, which was nonetheless excellent from a qualitative standpoint.

Garnet in color with ruby glints. A particularly fine nose, with aromas of cherry jam and blackberry in the foreground, followed by violet, cloves, roasted coffee notes and a mentholated close. A broad palate, where alcohol and softness balance an important, mature tannin. A wine of great pleasurability, already perfectly enjoyable.

Barolo Castellero Riserva 2003

The 2003 vintage was characterized by the consistency of sunny weather and near-total absence of rain. A combination of factors that pushed average temperatures to historic highs for the area, sustaining them over an extended period. The sugar content of the grapes at harvest was exceptional, with appropriate acidity levels.

A deep garnet in color, evolved. The nose is still fruity: jam of wild berries and cherries followed by sweet spices, cocoa powder and liquorice, leading to a still-fruity finish. An important palate, more dynamic than expected, with prominent tannins and a surprising acidity for such a warm vintage. The mineral close is delightful.

Barolo Castellero Riserva 1997

The year, which began under the sign of cold and snowfall, registered a long period of dry weather with above-average temperatures from late January through May. After summer, September was warm with scarce rainfall but good ventilation. The course of the entire year favored a notable accumulation of sugars in the grapes. An early harvest.

Transparent garnet; on the nose we perceive tertiary sensations of great pleasurability. Notes of ripe and preserved fruit, such as plum and blackberry, alongside intense, broad balsamic tones. Then undergrowth, hints of spice and dried rose in a picture of great complexity. The palate is in perfect balance, where silky tannins and freshness counterbalance the beautiful softness. The Castellero 1997 represents the emblem of a Barolo that has just entered what is likely a long maturity, distinguished by measure and elegance. Where every element, never dominant over the others, contributes to a harmonious whole.

Barolo Castellero Riserva 1985

An exceptional vintage despite particular climatic conditions. Following a very cold winter, there was a gradual recovery through the vegetative phases, with a well-balanced distribution of rainfall. The overall freshness of the vintage was transmitted to the wine, allowing it to age so beautifully over time.

The wine shows a brick color with wide orange rims, beautiful clarity and a luminous transparency. The aromatic framework is broad and articulate. The attack is distinguished by evolved notes of tobacco and leather, followed by toasted and china bark nuances over a faintly earthy base. Then fruity echoes emerge – cherry in spirit, bitter orange. A balsamic close. On the palate it strikes with its majestic freshness, perfectly integrated with the tannin and in balance with alcohol and softness. The minerality marks the long gustatory-olfactory persistence. I wonder for how much longer this magnificent vintage will be able to give us these emotions.

Emotions that were not lacking in tasting the various vintages of this wonderful Barolo cru, masterfully interpreted by the historic Fratelli Barale. Demonstrating how respect for the terroir and tradition represent the winning combination.