WHITE & ROSÉ WINES
  • AUGUST 31, 2026
  • 2 min
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Rosé wines, second-rate wines?

This is the time of year to taste them at their best. I'm talking about rosé wines, the bane and delight of Italian winemaking. They represent a small slice of the market and are unjustly considered second-rate wines, although they are part of the tra...

Pasquale Testardi

by Pasquale Testardi
Sommelier & Taster

Rosé wines, second-rate wines?

This is the time of year to taste them at their best.
I'm talking about rosé wines, the bane and delight of Italian winemaking.
They represent a small slice of the market and are unjustly considered second-rate wines, although they are part of the tradition of our territory.
They have always been present on Italian tables, from the rosati of Salento made from Negroamaro grapes to the Cerasuoli d'Abruzzo made from Montepulciano grapes.

In this early summer, rosé wines with coral, rosy, cherry-colored reflections – in the Abruzzese dialect cerasa, from which the name Cerasuolo derives – with delicate aromas and exuberant freshness, can comfortably accompany light summer dinners.
A few days ago at a lovely restaurant in Abruzzo, the Osteria degli Ulivi di Montorio al Vomano (TE),
I had the opportunity to taste a rosé wine suggested by the owner.
It was not, as one might have expected, a Cerasuolo D'Abruzzo, but a rosato di Lacrima di Morro d'Alba (An) from the Azienda Gianluca Bartolucci (Le Marche is just a stone's throw away).
For those unfamiliar with it, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is an indigenous Marche grape variety that produces a red wine with aromas of rose and red fruit jam, with soft and smooth tannins that make it preferable to other wines for pairing with the brodetto di pesce of Fano (Costa Marchigiana).
This rosé made from pure Lacrima grapes, obtained after brief skin contact, is perfect – with notes of rose, blueberry and restrained acidity, a satisfying and never-tiring sip, a worthy companion to an excellent galantina di pollo, and well-suited to accompany dishes with white meats – rabbit above all – fish dishes with tomato, and fragrant alici tarts.
A rosé with an excellent quality-to-price ratio, to which I would give a score of 4 on a scale of 1 to 5; it can be purchased directly from the winery at a price not exceeding 7 euros.
Give it a try.

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