Barbera d'Asti Tradizione Cantina Saccoletto: Carpe Diem

I can still distinctly recall the buzz of the many attendees curiously crowding around the producers' tables: noses in glasses, smiles, questions and banter; all amid the aromas of the fantastic wheels of pecorino from the Valle Scannese farm, which at first might seem to make it impossible to perceive any other scent, yet only made the atmosphere more jovial and informal – because when quality is there in the wine, you feel it: you really do!

The "Natural Critical Wine – Vignaioli Artigiani Naturali" fair, dedicated to natural wines, recently concluded in Rome – one of the many precious legacies left to us by Luigi Veronelli, who in the founding manifesto of the project wrote: "We sought the flavor of our planetary sensitivity without worrying about its knowledge, perhaps in the presumption that we already had knowledge. And so the first act of planetary sensitivity was to question the relationship between the knowledge and the flavors of life."

Certainly, producing a good organic or biodynamic wine requires knowledge that is a deep understanding of the viticultural ecosystem – bringing beautiful, healthy grapes into the cellar and the ability to transform them into beloved wine in the most respectful way possible, by adopting, for example, indigenous yeasts and a very low dose of added sulfites.

It is with this ethos that Daniele Saccoletto also works – a man whose sincere face with bright eyes, rosy cheeks, and the hands of an expert farmer speak as much as his "Vini pregiati del Monferrato Casalese," as he likes to specify.

Approaching his tasting table, the first thing that catches the eye is the bottle closures: all have been sealed with a screw cap. In a country with an ancient winemaking tradition accustomed to the classic cork for quality wines, this is still noteworthy and a subject of debate (however unresolved). The low dose of added sulfites – from 20/40mg/l – which serve an antioxidant function, could already be a valid reason to explain the choice of an airtight closure, and it also eliminates entirely the ever-lurking possibility of "cork taint."

The tasting journey unfolds across multiple vintages of wines produced from Grignolino and Freisa grapes, all of excellent craftsmanship, fresh and balanced with pronounced fruity and floral notes, followed by four versions of Barbera – Barbera d'Asti and Barbera del Monferrato respectively – offered in different agings in steel or in barrel for 24 months. The combination that personally excited me most bears the name "Tradizione," vintage 2007, produced from Barbera d'Asti grapes sourced from the long rows of the "vigna della Minerva dei Frati" and aged in steel. I liked it so much that I bought a bottle, to enjoy it at leisure and describe it better. Seductive from the very moment of the dull thud it makes when poured into the glass, the wine presents itself bright with a light garnet red color and a rim tending toward orange. The particular closure, which protects from oxygen exchange, means it needs more time to "open up," but the slightly compressed bouquet appears eager to express itself and take shape in all its complexity. Swirling the glass to encourage oxygenation leaves small, pronounced legs, reminding us that we are faced with a wine at 15 percent alcohol by volume.

On the nose, a fleshy, blood-like opening accompanied by hints of autumnal undergrowth soon gives way to fresh, mentholated notes that open toward scents of wilted red flowers, pink pepper, cherries and plums, all amplified by an ethereal note reminiscent of nail polish and a heart that smells of almond. On the palate, the sip is full and structured, yet rendered lean and easy-drinking thanks to the Barbera's generous acidity.

On the palate we find the blood-like notes in the form of a sharp minerality, and with them the entire bouquet perceived on the nose, including the almond that delivers a bitter finish which pairs well with the overall softness imparted by the silky, barely perceptible tannins. A broad, intense, and very persistent wine, we find it today at an evolutionary stage that makes it ready yet still developing toward maturity. To drink today but capable of expressing itself for several years, it could hold surprises for those who know how to wait. Paraphrasing Horace's famous phrase, I would suggest: "Seize the moment! ...yet, trusting as much as possible in tomorrow" – which is a bit like saying: ...better to buy at least two bottles!