Gewurztraminer: a wine with a special status

Valle d'Aosta, or Vallée d'Aoste in French – as Grosjean also notes on its labels – is one of Italy's special statute regions and the smallest in the Belpaese.

It is surrounded by the Alps and the four highest peaks in Europe: Monte Bianco, Cervino, Monte Rosa, and Gran Paradiso. Carved by the Dora Baltea, a tributary of the Po, it offers a fairytale landscape made even more evocative by the presence of endangered alpine flora and fauna such as ibex, marmots, chamois, and ermines.

Temperatures naturally vary by altitude, ranging from -30°C in winter to 30°C in summer; rainfall is scarce and precipitation falls mainly as snow.

It is in this remarkable region that Danilo Charrere founded his winery: Le Clocher, which produces around 35,000 bottles per year.

The winery is run by down-to-earth people who love to work, like Danilo and his daughter, who despite her young age is already dedicated to the hard work in the vineyard.

The pesticides used are always kept to a minimum, and the fertilizers employed are all natural.

Working the land here is no easy task – whether due to the climatic conditions or the steep terrain.

The grapes are vinified in the facility beneath the family home, where stainless steel equipment and tanks are predominantly used; storage also takes place on site.

In addition to international varieties, the winery works with native Valdostan wines such as Fumin, Cornali, Torrette Superiore, Torrette, and Petite Arvine. Today, however, we will talk about a wine that was "welcomed" into the region much like what happened after World War I, when hundreds of refugees – mostly children from Trentino – were taken in by the valley. It is here, in this same valley, that Gewurztraminer has been embraced by a handful of producers. This grape variety is probably – though not certainly – originally from Alto Adige (hence the allusion to World War I), specifically from Termeno (Tramin), even though for many years the undisputed kingdom of this variety has been Alsazia, where toward the end of the 19th century the Germans began planting vines of this type. Valle d'Aosta is geographically close to Alsazia, and this is why Danilo Charrere's product resembles French Gewurz more than those from Trentino.

A difficult variety to grow, with uncertain and sparse harvests, yet capable of delivering its best results in cold areas – the reason? Sugar content! The optimal balance between sugars and acids is reached earlier than the development of sufficient aromatic and gustatory compounds; in warmer climates, it would ripen too quickly, yielding bitter and sometimes oily wines.

Now to Le Clocher's product: those who often complain about Gewurztraminer do so because of its overly explosive aromatics – this is a different wine, still aromatic (let us recall that gewurzt in German means precisely "spiced, aromatic") but more refined, elegant, and delicate than average. The nose picks up aromas of apricot, peach, and pineapple – present but not overpowering. It has a notable, crisp acidity that makes it fresher and more enjoyable as an aperitivo, but also alongside fish-based dishes. Good persistence, excellent value at around €10–12.