Sfide 2012 La Madeleine, the Other Cabernet

I met Massimo D'Alema a few weeks ago in Rome, during the event tied to the presentation of the Guida dei vini essenziali by Daniele Cernilli. In front of me, some bystanders were discussing the referendum with him. When my turn came, I asked: - Can we talk about wine? -

D'Alema's smile was the prelude to a pleasant conversation about his family's decision to invest in the winery La Madeleine, in the heart of Umbria, with a particular focus on the cultivation and vinification of non-native grape varieties. Moreover, the technical management of the estate was entrusted to someone who has more than a little to do with both Umbria and international grape varieties. I am referring to Riccardo Cotarella who, in addition to being the director of the family winery Falesco, is above all the creator of many of the most awarded wines in Italy, among which we mention the Montiano, produced at his own cellar.

La Madeleine is a young winery, acquired in 2008, which Linda and Massimo D'Alema manage on behalf of their children Giulia and Francesco, who are its owners. The estate comprises 15 hectares of land, of which approximately 6.5 are devoted to the vineyard. The vineyards are situated on hillsides, at an altitude ranging between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, between the municipalities of Narni and Otricoli, in the province of Terni. At the time of acquisition, the property was in very different condition from today: of the old estate, only the name remains, La Madeleine, chosen by the previous owners.

Of the wines – all very well made – I was struck by the one that is perhaps the least demanding and yet for me the most evocative. So much so that, having tasted it again at dinner at a friend's house just a few days after my meeting with D'Alema, I could not resist the temptation to write about it. We are talking about Sfide 2012, a Cabernet Franc in purezza, a wine made without the addition of sulphites. A Cabernet produced following the commendable innovative technique, shared with other wineries, of Cotarella's Wine Research Team project.

Sfide, as mentioned, is produced exclusively from Cabernet Franc grapes, a variety that is truly underutilised in the national winemaking landscape. The production of Sfide follows a particularly rigorous protocol, starting from the experimental vineyards, which have been planted and whose agronomic management is carried out in collaboration with the Università di Perugia. The vineyards, trained in Guyot with a density of 5,400 vines per hectare, enjoy a favourable east-facing exposure. The grapes are carefully selected and the harvest, in mid-September, is exclusively manual, collected in 5 kg crates. The yield does not exceed 60 quintals per hectare.

The vinification follows the Wine Research Team protocol treatments, using yeasts selected by them. The vinification also takes place at controlled temperature, in stainless steel and in a reduced environment, so as to best preserve the varietal aromas of the grape. After racking and a subsequent brief period in stainless steel, the wine matures in barrique of French oak for approximately one year and for a further 4 months in bottle, before being released to market. The tasted vintage, 2012, develops 14 degrees of alcohol, with an acidity of 5 g/l and a dry extract of 30 g/l.

Let us now move on to the tasting notes.

Sfide 2012 presents itself with an intense ruby red colour, with vivid violet reflections. When swirling the glass, it forms thick tears and very dense arches, clear signs of a remarkable structure in the wine. The nose opens initially with a bouquet of red flowers, which quickly give way to hints of ripe fruit, predominantly blackberry and plum. Gradually, a green note emerges, of tomato leaf on a background of vanilla, forming overall a fairly articulated olfactory profile. The palate is consistent, confirming the fine structure of the wine, with velvety tannins and a good freshness well balanced by the alcohol and a great softness. The finish features balsamic retro-olfactory returns.

A wine that we enjoyed paired with a risotto alla carne di manzo e salsiccia di maiale, in which the freshness of the wine married well with the sweet tendency of the rice, while the tannin tamed the induced succulence of the meat. A wine whose remarkable drinkability we particularly appreciated, and which can be proposed alongside meats as well as cheeses or first courses. Capable, therefore, of accompanying an entire meal.