Italy, a land always suited to vine cultivation thanks to favorable pedoclimatic conditions, offers a truly advantageous scenario for quality crops. Many wineries, driven by passion and determination, are revaluing territories that have unfortunately often been forgotten, as is the case with the cantina vitivinicola Monte Somma Vesuvio. Deeply connected to the wonderful roots of their origins, they planted vines on abandoned land nestled within the Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio. Giuseppe Campanile, founder of the estate, realized that these undervalued territories were in fact fertile and capable of yielding prestigious wines even today. The birth of the estate thus represents a significant enhancement of this terroir and those native grape varieties that had been consigned to oblivion. Nicola Campanile, owner of the estate, gives us an interesting interview in which he explains the work they carry out to always keep the quality of the wines high and to honor this town called "Pollena Trocchia". From the answers given to us, a great energy and satisfaction also shines through – that of someone who, against all odds, manages to build a wine estate entirely on their own.
Pollena Trocchia, a place rich in history and tradition. Tell us about your town.
A town located in the province of Naples, precisely on the slopes of Monte Somma, an integral part of the Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio. Until the mid-twentieth century it was a destination for wealthy families who spent their holidays here. The town was anciently formed by two villages that boasted common origins – Etruscan, Samnite, and Oscan; these peoples, attracted by the mild climate and fertile soil, settled in this territory. Later came the Romans, who, in addition to farming, turned the area into a holiday and thermal spa resort; during this period, the two villages were given the names Apolline, from the temple dedicated to Apollo, and Trocla, from the Latin for press, because vineyards were cultivated above all and an excellent wine was already being produced. Then Joachim Murat, in 1811, unified the two villages into a single town giving it the name Pollena Trocchia.
How did this rediscovery of native varieties come about? Was it purely out of love for tradition?
Unfortunately, despite the mild climate and fertile soil, local agriculture remained anchored to old principles. Mixed cultivation is predominant – from apricots to walnuts, from hazelnuts to vines, from peas to broad beans and tomatoes, and so on. Since the territory offers considerable potential, the Montesommavesuvio estate decided to reverse course and enhance it, by recovering abandoned land and the native vineyards already present on site, without neglecting tradition as the cultural heritage of the place where one lives.
Elegant and original labels – what lies behind their creation?
The aesthetic pursuit of elements capable of representing what most characterizes the roots of our wines' origins, combined with respect for professionalism and creativity. All these premises are capable of providing that added value that makes ideas simple and elegant.
How is your winery organized? Who works there and what do they do?
The winery is structurally composed of two rooms: one is a laboratory, where the processing of grapes and wines takes place, the other is used as the estate's retail outlet. The laboratory houses the machinery for transformation plus stainless steel tanks for wine storage; there is also an underground room used as a barrique cellar. Here the wines Catalanesca I.G.P. and Lacryma Christi d.o.c. rosso are refined. Being a family-run estate, all the operators come from this context; it is also supported by a young and experienced oenologist.
The company organizational chart is as follows:
Campanile Giuseppe, agricultural technician, promoter of the idea, primarily handles technical management and fieldwork and winery operations;
Campanile Nicola, owner, handles the commercial side and fieldwork and winery operations;
Rollo Linda, graphic designer, handles marketing and communications and winery operations;
Do public bodies offer you support in your work to enhance the territory?
Public bodies are completely absent because they are incompetent and disrespectful of initiatives that do not bring them visibility.
What production and preservation techniques do you use?
During the harvest period, the picked grapes are brought to the winery quickly, as it is only a short distance from the cultivated land. The white grapes follow the white vinification technique: they are destemmed and passed through a pneumatic press, where cryomaceration with dry ice takes place, used to promote the recovery of aromas; subsequently the free-run must, used for bottling, is separated from the remaining portion. The masses are transferred into stainless steel containers at a controlled temperature of approximately 13°C. After 24–36 hours, a first racking is carried out to eliminate the solid particles that have accumulated on the bottom; yeasts are then inoculated, initiating a slow and steady fermentation lasting approximately thirty days. For the red grapes, after destemming and crushing, the yeasts are inoculated and the must is fermented at a controlled temperature of approximately 22°C.
What wines do you produce?
Lacryma Christi d.o.c. bianco. Blend: coda di volpe 80%, falanghina 10%, greco 10%.
Lacryma Christi d.o.c. rosso. Blend: piedirosso 80%, aglianico 10%, sciascinoso 10%.
Lacryma Christi d.o.c. rosso aged in barrique
Catalanesca I.G.P. del Monte Somma bianco, uva catalanesca 100%.
Catalanesca I.G.P. del Monte Somma passito. Fermentation and aging in barrique.
Falanghina I.G.P. Campania bianco, uva falanghina 100%.
Passito di Catalanesca I.G.P. del Monte Somma
Aging first in stainless steel containers for 4 months, then a passage in lightly toasted barrique for the Lacryma Christi rosso, and finally in bottle for at least 3 months.
Catalanesca is a grape variety little known to the rest of Italy – what are its characteristics that make it a great single-varietal wine?
The history of this grape variety is remarkable. At the end of the 1400s it was brought by Alfonso I of Aragon from the Spanish region of Catalonia and was planted in the territories of Monte Somma, where it took root very well. It is perhaps one of the few grape varieties that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world – in Catalonia it has almost completely disappeared. It has the particularity of having berries with a very thick epicarp and a very dense endocarp; indeed, the wine yield is around 60%, while for the passito it is around 30%. It is characterized by complex and intense aromas with clear fruity and floral notes, while on the palate it presents a fresh structure with a pronounced savory quality and minerality.
Only a few bottles of the Catalanesca are produced – is it considered almost a Cru?
It is certainly a Cru and production is limited because previously the grape was used mainly as table fruit since vinification was not permitted. Another reason concerns the majority of farmers in the production area, who have not registered their holdings, also because they do not have a far-sighted entrepreneurial vision.
An organic estate – why this choice to operate in accordance with organic principles?
The premise of producing quality wines inevitably leads us to avoid invasive practices in the management of the land; we do not use herbicides, we use systemic products sparingly, and in the near future we will eliminate them entirely. We try to respect nature in order to get the best from it.
How many bottles are produced per year?
Approximately 15,000 bottles.
Yield per hectare?
The production regulations stipulate a maximum yield of 100 quintals per hectare; our production is around 70 quintals per hectare.
What difficulties does a small winery face?
You certainly need to have, as the old farmers used to say, a "barbaric courage" to pursue an idea and put it into practice in a southern region, starting from scratch and relying entirely on one's own physical and financial resources. It is clear that without institutional support, dealing with cumbersome bureaucracy, gaining market presence and visibility, and the impossibility of accessing subsidized credit for young entrepreneurs all create considerable difficulties for agricultural entrepreneurs and others alike.
What goals have been achieved?
Initially, breaking the "wall of silence" at the local level was already a success, because in small communities a new initiative is always met with great skepticism. Then over time, as clients came to appreciate the quality of our products, they placed their trust in us and, through word of mouth, we gained market share, taking it even from others who were already operating in the market before us.
How do you plan to evolve? Are you also targeting foreign markets?
Maintaining a high quality level over time is a continuous evolution. We export small quantities to Switzerland and the Czech Republic; however, we are awaiting the opening of a good commercial channel that can make our products known primarily in the U.S.A. and China.
What do you think?
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