Cantine Bresciani: the Revenge of Lambrusco

An ancient wine, the Romans called "Lambrusche" or "Labrusche" the wild vines that climb spontaneously up the trees of the Apennine forests, from which a sharp, rasping wine was made.

Much water has passed under the bridge since then; today this wine represents Italy on the world stage, with staggering numbers – a red sparkling wine with international appeal, loved by the young.
Unfortunately, quality has not always been one of the cornerstones of this wine's production, and we have often found ourselves faced with questionable bottles, the result of high vineyard yields sold at rock-bottom prices and sealed with disrespectful plastic corks that did no justice to this ancient grape variety.

The heartland is Emilia Romagna, with the D.O.C. appellations of the provinces of Modena, Reggio Emilia, and Parma; but Mantuan Lombardy also boasts a long tradition in the production of Lambrusco. It is here that the Ruberti, Salamino, Barzemino (Basmèn), Marani, and Ancellotta grape varieties are rooted. A challenging terroir, that of the lower Po Valley, in precarious balance between land and water, where the tenacity of human labor has made these places perfect for producing quality Lambruschi.

In Rivarolo Mantovano, since 1999, Cantine Bresciani has pursued an ancient passion for native grape varieties, cultivated in traditional fashion across seven hectares, on mineral-rich soils shaped by land reclamation and wrested from the Po and the mists of the Mantovano.
Excellent is the range of wines produced, some of which have won multiple awards! Rodomonte 58, Basmèn, Rodomonte red and rosé – all I.G.P. – up to a pleasant Extrò Dry Spumante Rosè made from Lambrusco Ruberti and Salamino.
In the vineyard, Cantine Bresciani uses biological and homeopathic biodegradable products with low environmental impact, a sign of respect for the land that repays them with excellent raw material – a concentrate of Polyphenols, considered natural antioxidants, and Resveratrol, a beneficial molecule for individuals at cardiovascular risk.

Truly outstanding are the Basmèn and the Rodomonte 58.
The former – the Lambrusco I appreciated most – made from Barzemino, Maestri, Viadanese, and Salamino grapes, strikes me as the perfect wine for typicity; it best represents the territory, a semi-dry sparkling wine with good acidity and crisp notes of blackcurrant, wild strawberries, and rose that carry through on the palate, where the well-calibrated effervescence travels in balance with the moderate alcohol content. A slight residual sweetness that, I believe, makes it appealing to a younger audience to pair with local cured meats – Culatello di Zibello above all – young cheeses, and straightforward first courses.

Also excellent is the Rodomonte 58; compared to the Basmèn I find it fresher and more effervescent, with clear notes of violet and geranium – more crowd-pleasing than the first, though no less captivating for it.
Pleasant is the Rodomonte rosso, where aromas of blackberries, cherry, and raspberries stand out on the nose.
Well-focused is the Rodomonte rosato, excellent as an aperitif and with fish broths.

All of Cantine Bresciani's Lambruschi referment in autoclave following the Charmat method.

Best paired essentially with cured meats, whose richness is tempered by the effervescence and freshness these wines deliver.
The labels could use some improvement – they do not always manage to convey the undeniable quality that Cantine Bresciani has put into its products.
Deserving of applause is the Quality/price ratio for these wines, which ranges from nine euros including VAT for the Spumante Rosè to just under €3.70 for the excellent Basmèn (winery prices).
Prosit.