Colli di Lapio: confirmation with the Fiano 2014

In the past we have tasted several expressions of Fiano d'Avellino, one of the finest wines of Campania and the country as a whole. It is often produced by small rural estates such as the Azienda vitivinicola Colli di Lapio, run by Clelia Romano. It was precisely the Fiano d'Avellino 2009 from Colli di Lapio that had been reviewed on Wine at Wine, when it was tasted in pairing with a risotto alla zucca.

The Colli di Lapio estate was established in the first half of the 1990s. It is located on the old family farmstead in contrada Arianiello, a small hamlet in the municipality of Lapio. This Irpinian village, situated at around 550 metres above sea level, is characterised by a dry and breezy climate, excellent summer sunshine and significant diurnal temperature variations. And, more broadly, by offering optimal conditions for vine cultivation. So much so that Lapio represents the principal centre of the Fiano di Avellino growing area, among the 26 municipalities in Irpinia where production of this wine is permitted. And Arianiello is to be regarded as a true grand cru for Fiano d'Avellino.

The grapes come from estate-owned vineyards with a north-west exposure, planted around twenty years ago. The soil is composed of clayey marls mixed with sandstone on a calcareous skeleton. The training system is guyot and the vineyard has a planting density of around 2,500 vines per hectare. The vineyard is managed sustainably, applying the principles of integrated pest management. The harvest, which involves careful grape selection, takes place in early October, ensuring that yields are always kept low, never exceeding 80 quintals of grapes per hectare.

In the cellar, the Fiano is produced in stainless steel tanks. After a skin maceration lasting 2–3 days, the wine ferments for around twenty days at a controlled temperature of 16°C. The Fiano always ages in stainless steel during the winter and, after 4–5 rackings, is bottled where it rests for a further few months before being released.

From an analytical standpoint, the wine is characterised by nearly 7 g/l of acidity and a dry extract exceeding 23 g/l. The alcohol content is 13.5°.

Let us move on to the tasting.

Fiano d'Avellino 2014

The wine presents itself with an intense straw-yellow colour, vivid and crystal clear. The nose is varied and complex, offering an interesting aromatic range. Delicate floral scents of acacia soon give way to more intense fruity notes, with apricot prominently featured, followed by yellow peach, citrus fruits and hints of pineapple. Then wafts of linden blossom and mint, closing with notes of flint and bitter almond. The palate is full and coherent with the nose. Sumptuous and richly structured, the vivid freshness and minerality stand out as clear signs of the wine's sure ageing potential – something we have already experienced with satisfaction in the past. The depth is impressive and the finish is very long, still marked by almond-laced returns.

Although for the moment it is very young and austere, the wine is already harmonious and characterised by high acidity and the richness and complexity of its aromas. An exciting wine that confirms the impressions we had when tasting the 2009 alongside risotto alla zucca.