We are in Serralunga d'Alba, in the south-eastern area of the Barolo production zone. From a geological standpoint, the territory emerged from the sea in an earlier era, during the so-called Serravallian period, approximately 15 million years ago. On the western slope of the municipal territory, in the part facing the village of Monforte d'Alba, the 12 hectares of vineyards owned by the Pira family winery stretch out, more than half of which are planted with Nebbiolo da Barolo.
Three are the different historic and renowned vineyards where Nebbiolo da Barolo is produced: Marenca, Margheria, and Vigna Rionda. In addition to these, the estate also manages the Le Rivette vineyard, whose grapes contribute to the production of the Barolo del Comune di Serralunga.
The soil in which these cru are found is composed of the so-called Lequio Formations, namely grey marls alternating with sandstones made up of siliceous sands, which, in the presence of calcium carbonate and iron, take on a brownish hue. This soil composition, together with a viticulture that is very attentive to low yields, is responsible for the austerity that characterises many of the Barolo wines from Serralunga, as well as the firmness of the tannic structure. Another typical hallmark of these great wines is the need to wait over time for their best expression and, more generally, for their greater longevity.
We tasted the Barolo Pira from the 2011 vintage. We have already discussed the climatic conditions in relation to the Barolo di Brezza. It was a great vintage characterised by alternating weather conditions, with an early start to the vegetative cycle through to the late-summer rains, followed by a finally warm September. Conditions that led to perfect ripening of the grapes and a well-developed aromatic profile: a fundamental prerequisite for the production of wines with optimal characteristics. The estate's Barolo wines are produced by separately vinifying the carefully selected grapes from individual vineyards. The label therefore indicates the geographical mention of the cru from which the grapes originate.
We speak of Barolo Marenca, Barolo Margheria, Barolo Vigna Rionda and not forgetting Barolo Serralunga. Wines we will attempt to describe for you.
Barolo Serralunga 2011
As mentioned, the grapes come from multiple vineyards (Le Rivette, Marenca and Margheria), but all located in the municipality of Serralunga d'Alba. Alcoholic fermentation lasts approximately two weeks and for aging the wine rests for 24 months in 25 hl wooden casks.
The wine presents an intense garnet red colour with orange reflections, releasing aromas of raspberry and small red fruits, undergrowth and cocoa on an elegant base of leather, earth and spice. On the palate the firm elements prevail, though the structure and alcohol allow for a good balance with acidity and tannins. Good gustatory-olfactory persistence.
This is how the Barolo Serralunga struck us: calling it an "entry-level" wine is truly reductive.
Barolo Marenca 2011
The vineyard extends over more than 2 hectares with a south-westerly exposure. Alcoholic fermentation lasts approximately two weeks and the wine ages for a couple of years, divided between small and large oak vessels.
The colour is a deep garnet. The nose, initially closed, opens up to a bouquet of aromas that gradually become increasingly integrated. First, rather distinct floral sensations, then red fruit, earth, undergrowth, light spice and aromatic herbs. A young and dense palate that reveals excellent raw material, a slow and layered progression, very enveloping. More firm than soft, with an alcohol content that does not mask the flavours, a refreshing acidity and a tannin that is simultaneously astringent and silky. Beautiful fruity and spicy returns after each sip. A powerful Barolo that fully reflects the peculiarities of the appellation and, in particular, of the municipality. A very long life lies ahead of it.
Barolo Margheria 2011
From the estate's historic cru with a southerly exposure, extending over 1.5 hectares with vines of approximately 50 years. Alcoholic fermentation lasts a couple of weeks and the wine ages for a period of two years in 25 hl casks.
The Barolo Margheria presents itself with a garnet colour with ruby glints. On the nose it releases intense and complex aromas of rose, ripe red fruit of blackberry and marasca cherry, then liquorice, tobacco, leather, sweet spices and a mineral touch. On the palate it is aromatically consistent, with softness balancing a beautiful freshness and a vigorous, well-integrated finish tannin. Compact, it is a Barolo of great personality that expands into the long finish. One to forget in the cellar.
Barolo Vigna Rionda 2011
This is the most recent cru, part of the estate for around twenty years. The exposure is westerly and the soil is calcareous-clayey. Alcoholic fermentation lasts two weeks and the wine ages for two years in barrique and large casks.
Deep garnet red, it boasts a very dense and intense nose, with initial aromas of red and black fruit jam and spices. The nose then releases toasted notes of bitter cocoa, coffee, blackberry with balsamic and liquorice returns, which enrich an aromatic picture of great value. On the palate we find the same freshness and abundance as the other samples, with a tannic power that allows for a long finish with liquorice returns. A structured, powerful, yet elegant wine. Very long-lived, an emblem of one of the Gran Cru of Serralunga.
What more can be said? That Pira allows us to appreciate several different expressions of a very particular terroir within Barolo – that of Serralunga –, where the common thread running through the wines is found in the need for prolonged aging to best manage their firm components. Something that only wines like the ones we tasted are capable of achieving.
What do you think?
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